Fuel pumps, generators, and leaking SUs

[ronzet]

I have started a new topic and need to finish another...

All of the toils, troubles, and waxing philosophic in my fuel pump problems is now over.... New pump... fixes everything....

I HAVE ACTUALLY DRIVEN THE CAR IN MY DRIVEWAY!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif

Out with the old, in with the new: 1957 MGA, stock 1500.

I have polarized my generator but the generator light never goes out... Suggestions???

Number two... I rebuilt the seals and jets in my SUs (also stock).. Both are leaking from the jet adjustment nuts. More a weeping but enough to drip dangerously close to my exhaust...

ANYONE have a suggestion?? I may have screwed up the rebuild... I know that it is a big question with many variables but just want to start my sojourn in the right direction. I have pulled the carbs and have disassembled one... everything SEEMS correct ??? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif

 

[David_DuBois]

Generator - Remove the two wires from the generator terminals and short the two terminals together with a jumper. Attach an analog meter, set to read 20 or 25 volts full scale to one of the terminals (You didn't say which way you polarized the generator but if it is positive ground, attach the negative lead of the meter to the generator terminlas and oposit if negative ground). Attach the other lead of the meter to ground. Start the engine, but don't rev it up. Slowly increase the revs while watching the meter - it should increase as the reves increase. Be careful not to let the reading go above 20 volts as it will increase very rapidly after that point and can get high enough to damage the generator. if the voltage will go up to 20 volts, the generator is good. If it won't increase at all or only goes to 12 volts and stops there, the generator is in eed of an overhaul. If the generator tests good. start looking a the wiring on the regulator and the regulator itself.

Leaking jets - The seals you put in the jet carrier are cork gaskets. Did you soak them in oil before insalling them? Also look very closely at the bottom of the jets, where the fork attaches. The fork is attached with a square head screw and it can become loose and leak. If the screw is loose, remove it and put some locktite on it and reinstall. finally, there is the large jet assembly nut tht screws into the carburetor body and holds the whole jet assembly in place. It too gets a cork gasket that tends to leak. I replace it with a 2-211 'O' ring (available from NAPA. The 'O' ring makes centering the jet a bit more difficult, but it stops the leaks.
Cheers,

 

[100DashSix]

Hm, the only thing I can think of with regards to the leaking fuel is: when you installed the jet into the carburetor, how did you handle the cork sealing ring? When I rebuilt my Healey's SUs (quite similar looking) I soaked the cork in oil overnight to get a good seal.

Edit: Gah, Dave beat me to it by 18 seconds..plus he has more information!

 

[jlaird]

May I suggest that maybe, just maybe, the floats are not adjusted correctly allowing the fuel level to be above the jet seat thus the weeping.

 

[ronzet]

100DashSix and David,

Thanks gentlemen. I took the jet assemblies apart and put oil on the small cork seals... worked PERFECTLY... No more weeping, my carbs or ME!!!

Jack, thanks for the suggestion... When I had the carbs apart I checked the floats. They are adjusted and working properly..

I have already done the shorting of the A and F poles on the regulator a couple of times..I will try the generator shorting test. The generator is a new one from VB.. and the regulator is also new from Moss.

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

 

[David_DuBois]

Ron - A new regulator is no guarantee that it will work properly. they are often bad or misadjusted out of the box. If you want a regulator that will work properly all the time, send your old one to Bob Jeffers for conversion to solid state. Bob not only puts a solid state unit in your old case, he calibrates it to exactly match your generator and then shines up the case. Bob can be contacted at: bobj20@comcast.net

Jack - On the H type carburetor used in the T series and MGAs, any float misadjustment has to be out so far that the fuel leaks into the throat of the carburetor to go anywhere due to the arrangement of the jet seal. If the fuel level does get that high, the excess fuel flows into the intake manifold.
Cheers,

 

[Billm]

I have also heard that on some of the after-market voltage regulators that sometimes the points will have a coating (grease?) on them to prevent corrosion but it also tends to prevent charging too. May be prudent to (disconnect the battery first) remove the cover of the regulator and clean (or at least check) the points.
Bill

 

[ronzet]

Bill,

Thanks, hadn't thought of that. Easy check... I always TRY to do the easy ones first... but find myself going the hard route first all too many times... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

I have already done the shorting of the A and F poles on the regulator a couple of times. I will try the generator shorting test. The generator is a new one from VB.. and the regulator is also new from Moss.

I don't think the above is exactly what DD meant when he said this:
"Generator - Remove the two wires from the generator terminals and short the two (generator) terminals together with a jumper. Attach an analog meter, set to read 20 or 25 volts full scale to one of the terminals"

Shorting the A & F terminals together at the regulator without disconnecting the generator wires is likely to damage something.

I don't think it would work for polarizing the generator either. To polarize the gnerator, the safest procedure is to lift the D & F wires at the generator. Momentarily connect a wire from the car's battery to the F terminal for a second or two. Reconnect the wiring. (Engine NOT running for this procedure.)

It's pretty easy to damage the regulator contacts if it is done wrong.

If I misread what is happening, please forgive me.
D

 

[ronzet]

Dave,

Now I am totally confused... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif

I have read several references to the polarizing process of the generator and electrical system. To quote (abridged) the moss catalog

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]To Polarize a generator - A quick and easy.... hold one end of a wire firmly against the A terminal of the regulator and brush the other end of the wire against the F terminal of the regulator..... no wires have to be disconnected from the generator. [/QUOTE]

This is the process to which I was referring...

I hope that this is a valid process.... Let me know... Thanks /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

 

[David_DuBois]

Ron - The process that you got from Moss will work. Looking at the wiring diagram for the MGAs, I would be a bit concerned that doing it without disconnecting the wire from the regulator to the F terminal on the generator could possibly cause damage to the resistor in the regulator. I have always removed the wires from the generator, then attached a jumper wire to the generator F terminal (small terminal) and wipped the other end of the wire across a source of 12 volts (A terminal of the regulator or the starter switch terminal that goes to the battery). Let me emphasize "COULD POSSIBLY DAMAGE..." I don't know for sure if it will, but whenever I am in doubt, I try to error on the sie of caution.

The procedure that I sent previously is different from flashing the generator. It is a procedure to check that the generator will put out sufficient voltage to operate properly when it is hooked up in the charging circuit. If your generator turns out to be bad, I have one that I rebuilt some time ago and never used that I can sell to you for a reasonable price (ie. lower than M/M or V/B).
Cheers,