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Found this in my 1098

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Let me go check and see if I am missing one of those. LOL
 
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Picture is fuzzy, but is that a dipstick tube?
 
OP
M

mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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Don't know what happen to my other post, anyway makes sense that it is dipstick sleave. the dip stick was loose in motor when I had it running
 
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mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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Don't want to start another thread, but the nut that holds the front crank pully on. how does it unscrew? clockwise or counter clockwise?

also how do you remove the carburators from head with manifolds or with out ??
I took bowls off carbs for top bolts and slid the carbs away to get bottoms. I know this cann't be the easy way to do it.

Has anyone ever drilled holes in heat sheild so a socket could be placed through sheild to intake bolts at head?
 
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The crank bolt is normal RH thread , so counter clockwise removes it. To remove the carbs, unbolt them and the linkage from the heatshield and intake manifold, then remove the heat shield and spacers and then remove the intake manifold.
 

lesingepsycho

Jedi Warrior
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Hmm, It feels a little strange to disagree with Hap but when I pull the carbs, I pull them by loosening the 6 manifold nuts and removing the whole manifold/shield/carbs/air cleaners as one unit. I've gotten real good at it and can change a manifold gasket in about half an hour with the help of the indispensible 1/2" Craftsman ratcheting end-wrench. The secret to the Craftsman ratcheting end-wrenches is that the only need 5 degrees of movment to catch the next ratchet so they work incredibly well on our little cars. And as well they should if you're going to shell out $90 for a set of 7 or 8, but it is well worth it if you're going to spend any time working on these cars! Best money I ever spent! Try to get them on sale if you can. I managed to pick up my set for $60. No more flipping the open end on every turn!

JACK
 
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M

mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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lesingepsycho said:
Hmm, It feels a little strange to disagree with Hap but when I pull the carbs, I pull them by loosening the 6 manifold nuts and removing the whole manifold/shield/carbs/air cleaners as one unit. I've gotten real good at it and can change a manifold gasket in about half an hour with the help of the indispensible 1/2" Craftsman ratcheting end-wrench. The secret to the Craftsman ratcheting end-wrenches is that the only need 5 degrees of movment to catch the next ratchet so they work incredibly well on our little cars. And as well they should if you're going to shell out $90 for a set of 7 or 8, but it is well worth it if you're going to spend any time working on these cars! Best money I ever spent! Try to get them on sale if you can. I managed to pick up my set for $60. No more flipping the open end on every turn!

JACK

That is the answer I was hoping to hear, I never have been fond of that type of wrench, but in this case I will go buy a set. Are all there wrenches the same or do you have the stocking # still on case where you purchased.
 

RickB

Yoda
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Are the ratcheting end wrenches from HF any good at all?
Or should I expect to try to use them once and have them fall apart.
Do they work with the same 5 degrees as described above?

(they are considerably less than $90)
 

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
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Wait until it comes time to reassemble the linkage. Here's where the British Term Fiddly Bits came from.
 

Spridget64SC

Jedi Trainee
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Check out ACE hardware stores. They routinely have a 4 wrench 'Gearwrench' set on sale for 10-12 bucks. 7/16, 1/2 and 9/16 are the most used ones and are in these ACE sets. Gearwrench is good quality and I've had my original set over 10 years in regular use.

Worth a visit to ACE.
HTH
Mike
 
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mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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Jim_Gruber said:
Wait until it comes time to reassemble the linkage. Here's where the British Term Fiddly Bits came from.
Do you mean some people actually put them back together ?
 

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
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And get them to actually work as designed. Or at least I think it's back together as designed. Bugsy can motivate under his own power with the little skinny pedal.
And we won't get into a discussion on mixing up choke and throttle cable and where the linkage attaches. For a few days I had the only Sprite around that could not exceed 10 mph floored and engine really started loading up whenever I floored it. Oh the things I've learned in the last 10 years about Spridgets.
 
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