1962 E-Type

[Vaark01]

Hi,

I am seriously thinking about buying an XK-E roadster and would appreciate your thoughts on what to look for. There are a couple of nice cars currently on EBAY. I really like the red 1962 roadster in Georgia.

Any advice on particular years? Overdrive?

Thanks.

Paul

 

[Basil]

All ETypes are nice and I would not kick any of them out of my garage for leaking oil. However (and I may be biased because I have a 67) I would look for a later series I say, 65, 66, or 67. The reasons are several. First, the earlier ETypes have a non-synchro gearbox that drives a bit like a truck. The later cars employed a full synchro gear box which makes shifting much nicer. Also, the earlier Series I cars had bucket seats that were almost literally like buckets with some padding. The later cars (I think starting around 65) had re-designed seats that are much more comfortable. Any Series I will have triple SU carbs, which are much more desirable (in my opinion) than the later twin Strombergs (68 and later). Also, the earlier cars have a 3.8 L engine while the later cares have a 4.2 L motor. The same basic engine, just bored out a bit and provides a bit more torque.

I've owned both the earlier Series I (a 63 coupe) and the later Series I (the 67 I currently own) and they are both great cars. If you can get a good deal on a good example of either, I'd go for it, but I'd keep a special look out for the later cars (65-67). The Series II cars are nice too, but some changes to the motor for pollution control, etc., took some of the punch out of the engine. Also, they did away with the glass-covered headlights and the bumpers became less stylish over time. Then of course there is the much later Series III which is a V-12. Don't even think about it unless you have lots of cash laying around for repairs or restoration. I used to own one of those too, and it was a money pit!

 

[Vaark01]

Basil,

I really appreciate your advice. As for finding a good deal, should I use NADA as a price guide?

Thanks Again.

Paul

 

[Basil]

Basil,

I really appreciate your advice. As for finding a good deal, should I use NADA as a price guide?

Thanks Again.

Paul

NADA - Probably not. Prices on EType vary wildly depending on condition, originality, etc. You can get an idea of what they are selling for and what people are asking (not always the same thing) by browsing EBay. But probably the best advice on a car like an EType would be to have it professionally appraised by an independent appraiser familiar with these cars. And if at all possible, inspect the car yourself and look for potential costly problems. ETypes were notorious for rust and there are lots of examples of poor repair work and bondo buggies out there, so look at any potential car carefully! Properly repairing a Bondo'd EType can be very costly!

 

[jessebogan]

First, before buying any E type do research research research. And then do more research. A good E type is a delight. Any of the 3 series of cars has their charms. They are not all the same by any means. The "early" series 1s have some distinct idiosynchrasies. Like the boss mentioned, not so great seats (unless you happen to fit them) A different brake booster system, and the earliest cars have flat floors, out side locks for the bonnet and the like. The flat floors were changed by the factory to dished ones to enable actual humans to drive them. The later 4.2 cars have most of the bugs removed, and are to me more drivable.

Series 2 cars are even more drivable, with better cooling systems, and if you wish, AC, power steering, and auto trans on the 2 plus 2s. They have a bigger mouth on the bonnet, larger relocated tail lamps, and are not as pretty or pure in form.

The series 3 V12s are another beast altogether.More of a Grand Touring car than a sports car, they have much better interior room, (10 inch longer cockpit) are smooth as butter, and almost as complex as a Ferrari. A good car is a great car. A bad one can ruin you.

The whole thing about E types is 1. Condition. Any rust is too much, Leather is expensive to re do, the front frame work can rust, and is not repairable in real life. New parts are $$$$ Even changing a clutch is a big dollar job. Replacing a damaged bonnet can easily take 10 grand before it is perfect.
The second thing (assuming you want it at least partly as an "investment"), is that if restored, is it correct? A lot of parts can be mixed and matched, and the car will work fine. To make it correct may take finding some hard to come by little bits. Repro parts are not as good as the originals (IMO anyway) Contact your local Jag club, and try to get a ride (or better yet a drive) in a car that is at least similar to the one that you decide on. Have a pre purchase inspection done by someone that knows the cars. A good e type is a truly great car, hard to believe that the design is almost 50 years old. A poorly restored car (I call 'em cosmetic clunkers) can be a major financial pit. So buy wisely, and buy the best car you can afford.

 

[Basil]

Just to add a couple more considerations to what Jesse said - have it checked mechanically, preferably by someone who knows these cars! A proper engine rebuild can easily cost $10 grand these days and rebuilding the IRS (rear suspension) can quickly run north of $5k. The good news is, that just about anything needed is available for the EType, although some of the repro stuff is not what you would call great quality! Ask me about the replacement brake fluid bottles I bought! Cheap crap! The bad news is, if anything major needs sorting out, you had better have deep pockets or like me, be willing to take your sweet time! (I'd have been done years ago if I had unlimited funds!). The EType is a fantastic car, but it is an order of magnitude more complex and costly than restoring, say a 65 Mustang!

 

[Marvin Gruber]

If you are not a experienced car person or do not like tinkering with things, don't buy a XKE. I love mine but even the best restored cars will have issues from time to time. They are not Toyotas or Hondas.If you do want one, please have someone who knows them (XKE's) to look it over before you buy. They are different from the MG's and Triumphs. As Basil said, you can spend a fortune on one and still not get to enjoy it.

My advice is if you've never had a LBC, buy a MGB to start with and see how you like it. The XKE is one of the prettiest cars ever made but they are not for everyone.

Good luck

Marv

 

[Vaark01]

Gentlemen,

I sincerely appreciate your comments and advice as they will really help me in making a tough decision.

Thank you.

Paul

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Paul

I didn't look earlier but I see that you have a TR3B. There is a big difference between the TR and the XKE. Hope I didn't come on to strong about the XKE. I started with a TR3 first and moved up from there. XKE weren't so pricey when I tried my first one but boy was I intimidated by it after I got it. I've had at least a dozen of them from a 62 flat floor car to the V12's. DO be careful about the body rust. They are not that hard to work on. Post pictures here of any car your are interested in. The folks here will eyeball it very closely and tell you all about it.

Marv

 

[HEALEYJAG]

Inspections are VERY important...I have seen many "restored cars " over the years that looked great but were hidden nightmares. Buy the best one you can afford>

Pete

 

[LBCs_since_1988]

Overdrive?

E-Types never had an overdrive option. You can hit highway speeds in 2nd!

 

[Basil]

Overdrive?

E-Types never had an overdrive option. You can hit highway speeds in 2nd!

However if you have $6 grand laying around collecting dust, Classic Jaguar sells a georgeous Solid Billet Aluminum 5-speed gearbox for the Etype with variety of final drives ratios available.

 

[jessebogan]

Or if you buy an automatic series 2 2 plus 2, overdrive will fit due to the enlarged trans tunnel.

 

[toysrrus]

Or if you buy an automatic series 2 2 plus 2, overdrive will fit due to the enlarged trans tunnel.

Howdy Folks,

Having owned a `61,`64,`67 & `69 E-Type Rdstrs; Who on earth would want an "AUTOMATIC 2+2"????

I love the E-Types as well. When I hit the "Lotto"; I`ll finally be able to afford one "Again"!!

Best Wishes,

Russ

 

[why]

Ignore auction prices (may not be real), try to get a sense of private party transactions. I have owned my '67 for 25 years (750 mi/year weekly driver) with no major work needed, usual water pump, rebuild brake cylinders, alternator, ball joint kinds of stuff easily handled by amateur hobbyist me.
Jay