100/6 vs 3000 driving experiences

[HealeyRick]

Bob,

My photo of Big Blue doesn't really do it justice. It has a crane that uses an aircraft cable and pulley system to help support the weight of the electrodes while the operator is using it:

In your analogy, it's more like bringing a crew-served weapon to a knife fight. It really is quite easy to use, though, and the welds are accomplished with the touch of a button. I've done a lot of body work on my Healey over the years at adult ed classes at local vocational schools and one of the advantages is they often have some really neat equipment an individual restorer couldn't afford to purchase. Randy's welder looks pretty neat as well and for the price he paid seems to be a really good alternative for producing spot welds in the home shop.

 

[tdskip]

So what do you think the hardest part of that rust repair is going to be?

 

[John Turney]

So what do you think the hardest part of that rust repair is going to be?

Making sure the door gaps stay correct while replacing the sills, which are three piece, by the way.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Somewhere between your first post and today it sounds like you may have fixed on the 100-6 pictured and abandoned the idea of acquiring a 3000. Congratulations in either case,

Though it does not relate to the driving experiences of the two I assume you are aware that while all Healey models may have been created equal(ly) and the cost of repairing a particular item or restoring a car would be the same regardless of model, they do not all share the same market value.

Generally speaking 100-6's have a lower market value, with the four-seaters at the bottom of the pile, whereas late 3000's would be found at the top.

 

[dougie]

IMHO for any run of the mill Healey (ie not a famous works car, 100S etc) a replacement engine is no problem at all. There are many such cars around, mine included. Matching numbers is a concept promoted by dealers in an attempt to maximise prices. I couldn't care less. In addition, many cars claiming to be matching numbers might not be as the engine number only exists on a small metallic tag riveted on to the block. Many have fallen off and been lost during restorations and it is so easy to order a replacement tag with any number you want. Don't worry, enjoy the car and the restoration.

Dido, on the motor concerns. Most "non-track" events just want to make sure your check clears......

 

[tdskip]

Somewhere between your first post and today it sounds like you may have fixed on the 100-6 pictured and abandoned the idea of acquiring a 3000. Congratulations in either case,

Though it does not relate to the driving experiences of the two I assume you are aware that while all Healey models may have been created equal(ly) and the cost of repairing a particular item or restoring a car would be the same regardless of model, they do not all share the same market value.

Generally speaking 100-6's have a lower market value, with the four-seaters at the bottom of the pile, whereas late 3000's would be found at the top.

Hi Michael, thank you for the response and consideration. I am incredibly drawn to the car pictured, because it deserves to be restored and I am just foolish enough to think I can do it. I also know, however, that I can buy a later car for only slightly more money that's had close the purchase price spent in the restoration cost already. I am torn.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Start adding up all those DW pieces and pretty soon you're in the stratosphere.

FWIW, I just bought a slug of gearbox and OD parts from DWR. Their prices are mostly quite reasonable for the quality, but shipping adds some of course, and Customs--well, don't get me started on Customs. For example, Moss sells a new centershift mainshaft for $1K, but DWR sells one--arguably of better quality--for about $500 depending on the exchange rate. Same may be true for AH Spares and SC as well, I just haven't bought from them lately.

 

[steveg]

FWIW, I just bought a slug of gearbox and OD parts from DWR. Their prices are mostly quite reasonable for the quality, but shipping adds some of course, and Customs--well, don't get me started on Customs. For example, Moss sells a new centershift mainshaft for $1K, but DWR sells one--arguably of better quality--for about $500 depending on the exchange rate. Same may be true for AH Spares and SC as well, I just haven't bought from them lately.

I was just looking at the 3-figure prices for each of the many many required individual bits of a 100S Dunlop disc setup and thinking you could buy an LBC for that kind of money. I was also thinking you could just go with the Girlings and save enough money to attend one more of the events than you could have with the Dunlops.

 

[steveg]

Hi Michael, thank you for the response and consideration. I am incredibly drawn to the car pictured, because it deserves to be restored and I am just foolish enough to think I can do it. I also know, however, that I can buy a later car for only slightly more money that's had close the purchase price spent in the restoration cost already. I am torn.

It's always more economical to buy a car for which someone else has taken the hit.

 

[tdskip]

It's always more economical to buy a car for which someone else has taken the hit.

Absolutely. On the other hand I have a '75 MGB that needs about 1/2 as much of the welding as the 100/6 but paint, bottom end refresh, and a re-trim and it will still be a $5,000 car.

:

 

[tdskip]

What do we think the value difference between a four place 100/6 and, say, a late 3000 with both in driver condition, nice sub-5 footers, mechanically sorted etc?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

1) $30K, 2) $40K (probably on the high end for both)

My dad gets several magazines--Hemmings, Old Cars, Hagertys, etc.--with price guides. I usually only check the 100s and the BJ8s and last I checked #1 cars were about $90K and $105K respectively (100Ms weren't broken out).

 

[Brinkerhoff]

You haven't bought this old turd yet? Thank goodness ! It might be restorable - says who? , you'll not know until the paint is completely removed as it isn't original by any means and could be hiding much more in the way of rust and collision damage. This car is way rustier than you might think it is and you'll have the car completely disassembled to fix it properly. It has been driven on salted roads and the electrolytic corrosion damage on the shrouds could cost thousands of dollars to fix. Regardless, once you start on it you're committed to finishing it. Never restore the least valuable model of anything , it doesn't make sense. Buy it and flip it .

 

[HealeyRick]

What do we think the value difference between a four place 100/6 and, say, a late 3000 with both in driver condition, nice sub-5 footers, mechanically sorted etc?

Hagerty values the 100/6 at $32,200 and the BJ8 at $49,400 in "Good" condition. A BJ7 is valued at $44,000. I'm kind of with Brinkerhoff on this one. That chassis on the 100/6 looks kind of crusty to me and I wouldn't be inclined to make a purchase without a good poke around the main chassis rails and outriggers with a good sharp instrument. Bore scopes are pretty cheap nowadays and might be just the ticket for taking a peek at Healey inner chassis rails. Even assuming the chassis is relatively sound, there's a lot of work involved before you're going to be running any 1,000-mile rallys. Since we're building dream cars, take a look at a BJ7. All the grunt of the BJ8 with the old style interior and none of the fine furniture. A replica of 56 FAC, 57 FAC https://www.fourintune.com/images/56-FAC/index.htm, the Sebring cars, with a hardtop, aircon and some comfortable rally seats could make a nice office to travel through all kinds of weather you might get on a long rally. The BJ7 will save a lot on the purchase price over a BJ8. Check this one out:

 

[tdskip]

You haven't bought this old turd yet? Thank goodness ! It might be restorable - says who? , you'll not know until the paint is completely removed as it isn't original by any means and could be hiding much more in the way of rust and collision damage. This car is way rustier than you might think it is and you'll have the car completely disassembled to fix it properly. It has been driven on salted roads and the electrolytic corrosion damage on the shrouds could cost thousands of dollars to fix. Regardless, once you start on it you're committed to finishing it. Never restore the least valuable model of anything , it doesn't make sense. Buy it and flip it .

So how do you really feel? Grin.

Kidding aside those are great points, I am probably being a touch optimistic as-to what it will take.

 

[tdskip]

Hagerty values the 100/6 at $32,200 and the BJ8 at $49,400 in "Good" condition. A BJ7 is valued at $44,000. I'm kind of with Brinkerhoff on this one. That chassis on the 100/6 looks kind of crusty to me and I wouldn't be inclined to make a purchase without a good poke around the main chassis rails and outriggers with a good sharp instrument. Bore scopes are pretty cheap nowadays and might be just the ticket for taking a peek at Healey inner chassis rails. Even assuming the chassis is relatively sound, there's a lot of work involved before you're going to be running any 1,000-mile rallys. Since we're building dream cars, take a look at a BJ7. All the grunt of the BJ8 with the old style interior and none of the fine furniture. A replica of 56 FAC, 57 FAC https://www.fourintune.com/images/56-FAC/index.htm, the Sebring cars, with a hardtop, aircon and some comfortable rally seats could make a nice office to travel through all kinds of weather you might get on a long rally. The BJ7 will save a lot on the purchase price over a BJ8. Check this one out:View attachment 51791

Thanks Rick, and what a car!

 

[tdskip]

Good morning.

Priced out a new interior and a set of Dayton tubeless wire wheels at Moss and just saw over $5500 go poof.

Can you paint one of these to a good, but not outstanding, condition with the fenders and doors on?

 

[Brinkerhoff]

I just thought we were the kind of guys that talked each other off the ledge and not just cheered them to jump!

 

[Brinkerhoff]

It sure looks to me from the rust in the outer sills ( rocker panels) that the inner sills will be weak and need replacing also which means the front wings will have to come off as well as the rears in order to fit everything up properly. It becomes a "connect the dots" affair to find good sound metal to weld to . Once the wings are off , you'll expose damaged shroud edges due to the electrolytic corrosion. Now you'll need an expert to repair the shrouds unless you have a TIG setup and 20 years of skill. ( I've got a guy for that). Thats part of why it gets expensive really quick.

 

[tdskip]

I just thought we were the kind of guys that talked each other off the ledge and not just cheered them to jump!

Nah, you are doing it right I just insist on jumping.

Going to let the seller know - who is a really good chap btw - that this is not the right car for me.

This has been a fantastic education and VERY much appreciate all of the perspective shared and patience with my learning curve.