TR2/3/3A Speedo Installation TR3A

Well I spent a frustrating 30" trying to get the speedo cable started on the speedo housting, to no avail. Are there any tricks that I should know about or is it just going to be careful perseverence as with so many other things with this LBC?
I should say that it is ine the dash panel. I tried to do it by putting the cable on first but couldn't get it into the dash panel without forcing it, don't want to do that.

Any thoughts, words of encouragement or other info, would all be helpful. Thanks, Tinkerman

So you were able to fit the cable to the speedo when the instrument was out of the panel but can't now that it is in?

Can you see the connection or are you working by feel? They have to be squared up to each other to thread -- but you realize that. Also, if working from the front (facing the speedo) and reaching under the ferrule sorta turns the opposite way than what might be visualized (but again, I expect you rrealize that).

Words of encouragement -- okay, it shouldn't be that hard.

Dick, here's the trick...

Pull the cable out of the tube about 6" and stick it into the speedo. Then, slide the cable and speedo as a unit back in the tube until the aluminum tube hits the back of the speedo. If it doesn't go the last 1/2", turn the unit until it does...then straighten the speedo back up. Finally, bring up the nut and secure the tube to the speedo.

The problem you are having is that the square drive is off from the square hole in the speedo. Once they line up, it will slide right together.

Oh, one last check...the nylon ring on the cable should:

1) be on the speedo side of the tube, not the distributor side.
2) easily fit all the way into the tube without sticking out. If it doesn't, the cable is too long.

Hope this helps

Post Script...just read your post again. It sounds like maybe the tube is binding in the grommet in the firewall. After connecting the speedo, try pulling the tube from the firewall side...

John

I've been doing the same thing a lot lately. My biggest problem is getting the nut lined up with the threads on the speedo. Turns out, for me at least, it's easier to just shinny under the dash so I can see what I'm doing; wearing a "head light":
https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-HDL33AINE-6-LED-Headlight/dp/B000MGGT66

Usually, I can get the squares to line up by just wiggling the cable housing in a circle a few times.

The good news is, the speedo and odometer mechanisms seem to be working properly now; the odometer no longer causes the speedo to waver all over the place. Last step is to rework the tripmeter as well (remove the dials to clean, polish and lubricate all the friction surfaces) and do a final calibration.

Thanks for the suggeswtions folks! Randall your thought about using a headlight clicked for me. I rummaged around and found the headlight I had. Haven't used it for a number of years so it kind off slipped out of my tools memory file. I switched it on and sure enough it even still works.

Cheers, Dick

Success!!! A combination of all your tips and suggestions worked like a champ. Put my head light on, a quick semi-shinny under the dash and two minutes later it was done.
Now on to the tachometer, yea!

Gotta love the forum, Tinkerman

Now, Dick - I know you pretty well. A "quick semi-shimmy under the dash"? Who you kiddin'?

Glad you got 'er done!


Mickey

Not with my back or my waist size. Quicker in the TR8, but very slow in the TR6.

Mickey! Mickey, oh ye of little faith. I have lost 30lbs and 3" in the waist! I am a slim trim wrenching machine, heh.

Dick

For what it is worth guys:

I have just had an extensive talk with the folks at MO-MA in NM.They are very concerned that the TR3A speedo cables coming from Thailand have the squared end at the speedo end too long and forcing the speedo shaft to push on the speed cup inside the speedo. This causes the speed cup to wind up the hairspring on the pointer shaft.
This will very quickly render your speedo useless.
They recommend cutting a small amount off the inner cable so that it cannot bottom against the speedo shaft.They insist that 1/2 inch of squared shaft is too long.
This has been happening with Moss & VB cables for about 4 years. Not sure about RF cables.
It is worth checking on your car.
Maybe this post should be a sticky.

Bob

FWIW, my experience has been that cutting the inner cable may lead to its unraveling and becoming useless. A very careful cut with a Dremel and an abrasive cutoff blade may work OK, but you can't just whack it off with a hacksaw or nippers.

An alternate approach is to tap the inner cable back through the nylon locating collar slightly. I insert the inner cable in the bench vise, so the collar is resting on the top of the jaws and the jaws are just gently closed against the inner cable, and then tap on the end with a brass hammer.

I just opened a new TRF speedo cable the other day (probably been on my shelf for 2 years) and it was not too long.

Thanks for tips Randall.

I appreciate that stranded cable can be a bear to work with.
I dont have my speedo back from Mo-Ma yet but I will check as soon as it is back.

Edit: I like your idea of pushing the inner back relative to the plastic bushing but wont that make it too long at the transmission. I will have to check.

Bob

The transmission end normally has plenty of extra room; but it certainly won't hurt to check.

Also don't forget to wear eye protection while working with the Dremel. I neglected to take my own advice yesterday, and I'll have to visit the eye doctor tomorrow.

There is a Triumph tech bulletin on my web site on the calibration page that tells the length that all speedo cables should be to prevent that problem.

My concern about my inner speedo cable being too long was unfounded.

Just checked & my new inner cable from VB is 1/8" shorter than the speedo shaft square hole that receives it so no worries.

Bob