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Need help! Bentley manual is useless. My carbs have fixed jets and fixed needles. Both are worn.
Questions:
I. Haynes manual states "the jet assembly is pressed into the body and is not adjustable or removeable".
Contradiction: Moss sells a master rebuild kit that "includes jets for all models from 1970 on". (Brit Vic ain't got a clue). So I assume the jet CAN be removed and replaced.
A) What's the best way to press the old jet out?
B) How do you press the new one in?
C) Is the new jet set flush to the bridge? My old jet positions show two concentric "step downs" from the bridge i.e., two concentric levels or platforms--the center step down being the deepest or lowest. (Jet within a jet holder within the jet bore?)
II. Metering needle
Haynes manual states fixed needle assembly fits into a socket in the air valve guide rod.
A) My needles are stuck--can't be pulled out with fingers (the car sat for 8 years). Can they be pressed (forced) out by inserting a steel rod down thru the air valve guide rod? Will a retaining clip prevent this (assuming there is one--see next item)?
B. Should I assume the retaining clip (Moss part #365-395) which the Moss catalog says is needed for my model 3292 is actually not needed? Why would you need a retaining clip if the needle locking screw holds it in place--it's a fixed needle assembly. If there is one, how do you get it out and the new one in?
III. Tuning
Since the jets and metering needles are fixed, is there any other way to fine tune idle and/or A/F ratio? Or will that be unnecessary?
IV Vacuum Port Connections
Rear carb has 3 vacuum port connections. Bottom port goes to distributor advance; front/side port goes to valve cover (Via T-fitting)--where does the top port go?
Thanks so much for your help. This is a fantastic bulleting board!
Questions:
I. Haynes manual states "the jet assembly is pressed into the body and is not adjustable or removeable".
Contradiction: Moss sells a master rebuild kit that "includes jets for all models from 1970 on". (Brit Vic ain't got a clue). So I assume the jet CAN be removed and replaced.
A) What's the best way to press the old jet out?
B) How do you press the new one in?
C) Is the new jet set flush to the bridge? My old jet positions show two concentric "step downs" from the bridge i.e., two concentric levels or platforms--the center step down being the deepest or lowest. (Jet within a jet holder within the jet bore?)
II. Metering needle
Haynes manual states fixed needle assembly fits into a socket in the air valve guide rod.
A) My needles are stuck--can't be pulled out with fingers (the car sat for 8 years). Can they be pressed (forced) out by inserting a steel rod down thru the air valve guide rod? Will a retaining clip prevent this (assuming there is one--see next item)?
B. Should I assume the retaining clip (Moss part #365-395) which the Moss catalog says is needed for my model 3292 is actually not needed? Why would you need a retaining clip if the needle locking screw holds it in place--it's a fixed needle assembly. If there is one, how do you get it out and the new one in?
III. Tuning
Since the jets and metering needles are fixed, is there any other way to fine tune idle and/or A/F ratio? Or will that be unnecessary?
IV Vacuum Port Connections
Rear carb has 3 vacuum port connections. Bottom port goes to distributor advance; front/side port goes to valve cover (Via T-fitting)--where does the top port go?
Thanks so much for your help. This is a fantastic bulleting board!
