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You not going to beleve this

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Just had Miss Agatha out. Not that I am supose to drive till Monday, However, I could not wait.

Changed the pop off valve to a ball bearing that Hap provided. 66 lbs oil pressure, at idle 23 both at 180 degrees.

Further tests to follow. I can hardly beleive it. When that thing hit 60 plus when I started it I could almost have shouted. I must have checked it four of five times before I pulled away.

Thank you Hap, although I know the final verdict is still out, but so much better. Hard to beleive,

Oh yea, had to cut about a turn and a quarter of off the spring.
 
I could not wait, I just could not.
 
Wait a minute didn't I just get done reading a post about how you can barely see??? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Who the heck needs to see, hehe. I can fix these thing by feel.

Oh the driveing part, well it is getting better all the time. Wife says I am beautiful now, LOL That's a first.
 
Jack,
I'm glad the ball seems to be working for you. Take it easy though.
 
*sigh*

well at least the oil pressure issue is sorted a bit.
 
Told you guys I am fine. It is just that the stretching of the sides of my lids has changed the shape of my eyeballs a bit but they will revert as it goes down. heck I can see the forum now quite well. Not perfect yet but quite well.
 
Yep will, but think I will hang on to it.

Was just out again and got engine to 180 temp, high as it will go here at only 90 degrees.

30 lbs at 2k and 40 lbs at 3k, idle is 10 lbs now, that is the bottom of the acceptable range for both high and low.

Think I will try to get a standard length spring in there now. I had cut a turn and a 1/4 of off the one in there at present.

We will see but not today, Tomorrow maybe. If that gets things off the bottom of the acceptable level I will wait on puling engine till it is cooler this fall. Not like I am going to take any long trips.
 
I tried working with the relief valve when I had the same problem with no success. I don't think that is your problem.
I ran mine for 8000 miles with no damage, but I changed the oil frequently and always added Motor Honey to it. It would help while the oil was fresh. I think you should enjoy it until fall and then look at the internals. I still suspect it is bearing clearances. Even when a shop says they are good, I still check them myself. The shop that did my 1275 told me the cylinders were good, and when I checked them, they were egg shaped. Ended up requiring +.020 to correct. They later admitted they could not bore them anyway because they did not have the correct boring bar. So they honed them and told me they were OK. Last time I ever took anything to that shop. Hopefully I am wrong and you find out something different.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif I rebuilt my Prefect engine several years ago. Had the machine work done on the block and head by a good shop. With one broken main cap, it had to be line-bored. When I started reassembling it, the new rod inserts the replaced the original babbits were perfect but the mains were way loose. I don't remember how much now. I took the whole thing back to the shop. The machinist checked it all out and admitted that he had read the wrong specs and bored it too large. Being a reputable shop, he made it right by finding thicker Taunus bearings and reboring to fit those. You really do have to double check though.
 
Oh yep, agree with all. Will mess about a bit for now and pull it for sure when the weather gets a bit cooler this fall. Need to check some stuff inside and fix the tranny and replace clutch disk as well.

All preaty good now, at least I can play with it a bit but the pop off valve is not the entire answer but it was part of it.
 
Jack
If you are running a thin oil (like 20W-50 or such) you may want to go to something thicker (like 30 weight). These engines were not designed for the super-light oils that our new cars use. The engine oil pressure specs were probably done using 30 weight and you are in Florida which is a bit warmer than London.
Bill
 
Hmm, yep, 20-50.

That's not a bad idea. About time I changed the oil in any case. Will do that. Thanks.
 
I know the viscosity of the oil is its thickness.

Anyone have a link to what is what?
 
Well, that sounds dumb to me. How the heck could a warmer oil get thicker?

Oil / Lubrication

Most people like to change their oil themselves and save money. The problem is that today's cars are more complicated and many people are intimidated. You can get specific oil change directions and other repair procedures online instantly from ALLDATA. You can even print out the directions and not worry about getting oil all over them ! I also have a large selection of auto repair manuals in my online shop, Click Here to check them out.

I receive a lot of questions regarding oil and the least understood part is the number system used to rate oils.

Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).

Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.

Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. You will hear them referred to as multi-viscosity, all-season and all-weather oils. An example is a 10W-30 which is commonly found in stores. When choosing oil, always follow the manufacturer's recommendation.
 
Oil Viscosity
Weighing in on engine lubrication
by Wayne Scraba


Most people are familiar with oil's viscosity rating—10W40, for example. However, very few may know that the "W" refers to "winter," not "weight." And most of us have no idea what the weight-rating numbers actually mean other than that the vehicle's manufacturer specifies a particular viscosity.
Oil Duties
Inside an engine, oil is in a Catch-22 scenario: it has to seal rings and valves, but it also must reduce friction. In simple terms, oil has to accomplish two functions that have directly opposite requirements.
The viscosity of any oil changes with temperature. The higher the temperature, the lower the viscosity—the oil thins out. On the flipside, the lower the temperature, the higher the viscosity. Because of this, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a series of viscosity classifications that establish oil performance at 100 and 0 degrees Celsius (212 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit, respectively).
Highs & Lows
Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil.
Multigrades
Multigrade oils typically begin as base oils, such as 10W. Then viscosity-index modifiers (polymers) are added in an effort to stabilize the viscosity. This allows a 10W40 oil to flow like a 10W at cold temperatures and a 40W at higher temperatures. In other words, multigrade oils are formulated to pass viscosity tests across a range of weights. For example, 10W30 meets the requirements for 10-weight at cold temperatures and 30-weight at high temps.
The multigrade oils' viscosity modifiers are long-chain molecules that lessen the change of viscosity with temperature variance. In the past, the polymer additives (used to thicken the oil) were sometimes susceptible to viscosity loss. Permanent viscosity loss occurred when high shear forces (such as the relationship between the main bearings and the crankshaft) actually break the polymer molecules into less-effective smaller pieces. On a similar note, temporary viscosity loss also occurred when the polymer molecules aligned themselves in order to create a path of least resistance.
Fortunately, today's additive packages have improved oil's shear-resistance. However, oils with the same rating from different manufacturers can exhibit different viscosity ratings in an operating engine, depending on the shear stability of their viscosity-modifying additives.
For technoids, weights are defined thusly (stokes and centistrokes are measurements of viscosity):
"SAE 30 is SAE 30 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 0W, 5W or 10W. This viscosity in centistokes (cSt) @ 100 degrees C is with the minimum of 9.3 cSt and a maximum of 12.5 cSt.
"SAE 40 is SAE 40 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 5W, 10W, 15W or 20W. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C is within the minim of 12.5 cSt and a maximum of 16.3 cSt.
"SAE 50 is SAE 50 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 5W, 10W, 15W or 25W. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C is within the minimum of 16.3 cSt and a maximum of 21.9 cSt.
"SAE 60 is SAE 60 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 10W, 15W or 25W. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C is within the minimum of 21.9 cSt and a maximum of 26.1 cSt.
"There is no SAE 70 and no one is likely to make one with a "W" prefix number although it is possible using a synthetic base oil. This viscosity is identified as Grade 70. The viscosity @ 100 degrees C has a minimum of 26.1 cSt and no maximum."
The difference between a multigrade and a singlegrade oil: The singlegrade can't pass the low temperature viscosity test. If it did meet one of the following "W" viscosities, it would be a multigrade.
Singlegrade oils will become obsolete for performance engines in the future. We dropped SAE 30 and SAE 40 because SAE 10W40 does everything 30 or 40 can do—and some things the straight grades can't do—like increasing horsepower. If an off-roader doesn't like 10W40, then use 20W50. It can do everything a 10W40 can do except pass the sub-zero viscosity test at -20 degrees C.
Multigrade viscosities are run at six different sub-zero temperatures. When a racing-oil designer puts a formula together, he has to know the viscosity at 100 degrees C of every component in the additive composition. He has to have a target viscosity objective for the finished oil in each SAE grade. Once a formula is established, the technician who supervises the blending has to duplicate this formula in the correct proportions every time the product is blended. The viscosity at 100 degrees C has a plus or minus written into the oil's quality-control specification.
Multi-Viscosity
One oil manufacturer claims that "some people in the industry use multi-viscosity as if it means the same thing as multigrade. An oil cannot be multi-viscosity, but it can be multigrade by meeting the viscosity requirements for SAE 30, 40, 50 or 60 and one of the sub-zero "W" viscosity requirements. At one time, some oil companies labeled oils SAE 10W, 20W30—as if the oil could be 10W and 20W at the same time. This is impossible because 10W is measured at -20 degrees C and 20W is measured at -10 degrees C, which eliminates the multi-viscosity theory."
API Numbers
Shortly after WWII, the American Petroleum Institute (API) developed a system that established three basic types of engine oils: regular, premium and heavy-duty. Naturally, three oil classifications could never hope to cover all of the different applications ranging from conventional passenger cars to heavy-duty trucks. The API eventually realized that other variables had to be considered, such as the type of engine and its usage. In 1952, the API launched the service classifications system.
The API system revolves around two general classification: S for Service (typical passenger cars and light trucks) and C for commercial applications (typical diesel equipment). The breakdown of "S" varieties is as follows:
SA: This is a plain mineral oil that doesn't contain additives common in today's high-tech lubricants. This oil was primarily used in the 1920s and is obsolete today.
SB: Lubes that contain anti-wear and oxidation inhibitors as well as corrosion inhibitors. This oil was primarily in use prior to 1964, was created for vehicles that saw moderate conditions and is obsolete today.
SC: This classification was originally recommended for use in 1964-67 vehicles. It contains additives that control rust, wear, corrosion and engine deposits. It too is now obsolete.
SD: SD lubes were recommended for use in 1968-70 vehicles as well as certain post-1970 passenger cars. This oil contains the same additive packages as the SC class and can be used in place of it. SD is obsolete today.
SE: This category was recommended for certain 1971 vehicles as well as most 1972 vehicles. This classification offered more protection than the SD group of lubricants and was suitable for severe-duty applications. This classification is used in place of SD oils, but it is now obsolete.
SF: Recommended with 1988 and older passenger vehicles. This oil has superior anti-wear properties and enhanced oxidation stability over SE lubricants. It too is obsolete today.
SG: The SG rating was introduced in 1989 and combined the performance properties of the commercial rating CC (lubricants designed for use in supercharged/turbocharged diesel applications in moderate to severe service). Its designated use is for 1993 and older engines, and is also obsolete.
SH: Now obsolete, SH was designed for 1996 and older engines.
SJ: Introduced in 1996, this rating is for all automotive engines, early 2001 and older and is still current.
SL: This rating is for all gasoline engines currently in use. SL oils are manufactured for better high-temperature deposit control and lower oil consumption. Some SL oils also qualify as "Energy Conserving." SL is the most current of all categories. Look shortly for the soon-to-be-announced SM category.
Generally speaking, think of the API system as a blueprint for oil. In order to gain an API classification, oil manufacturers have to follow a set of limitations. This creates a few problems for oil companies, especially those who produce racing oils. Race oil must conform to viscosity-grade standards but not to those for chemical-additive composition and base-oil composition. That's why you'll find several brands of race oil without API classifications.
To get the most from your engine oil, always follow the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation for oil change intervals and refer to your owner's manual for the type of oil to use in your specific vehicle, being sure to choose the correct SAE viscosity and the recommended API category. And—as always—make sure to properly and safely discard your used motor oil. For more information about disposal, contact: https://www.recycleoil.org.
 
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