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You not going to beleive this

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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About three miles on car now, no rear seal leak. Not sure I beleive it either.

However, I do not have a forth gear. Think I got a ball bearing in wrong, duh. Need to read up on that. It was the first time I ever had one come out.

Will take it to the car show as it is and continue driveing it around Blue Water useing third gear just to check and double check that the leak is gone.

What I did, noted that the bottom half of the scroll seal can not be adjusted or moved as it is cast as part of the rear main bearing cap. But did note that the top half although not adjustable other than the slop in the bolt holes. Noted that someone said the fix was to use jbweld and kitchen plastic wrap to make it tight.

I laped the ends of the top seal with sandpaper on a flat surface, supose I might have taken off several thousands. When I bolted it back on I used a bit of gasket maker on the back and just a finger wipe on the bottoms where they mate with the cap seal. Used a C clamp to make sure it was down as far as it would go as I tightened it up.


Will find out over the next few days if indeed the leak is gone or the seal is in fact a seal.

After the show next weekend, out it comes again think that will make 7 times still not happy with second gear, remains a bit stiff.
 
Do you have some sort of positive crankcase ventilation (engine vacuum) or is it simply vented to atmosphere?
 
Just vented to atmosphere.

Still no drip, not a one and has been a bit over an hour, about time for another run.
 
Ok, further testing indicates a penny to a nickel size oil drip after shut down with a long run.

Had a thought though, that tranny does not have the big cotter key in the drip hole. I wonder, I just wonder if that is supose to hold the little bit of oil till it wiggles when the car is under way.
 
Well I have experience with my engine that blow-by pressurizing the crankcase will force oil out the back. My sitch was kinda extreme as I had some broken rings, but I also have the 1969 positive crankcase vent system. You may have normal to above normal blow-by but without an evac system you may be pushing oil past the scroll seal.
 
Jack, that cotter pin is there to rattle in the air current under the car as it ride down the road and keep the weep hole from getting clogged, a simple solution that works rather well. A drop or tow form a A series engine is perfectly normal as the reverse scroll work to pull the oil back towards the engine as it is running, but when shut off, any oil at the scroll area could cause a drip or two, perfectly normal for a rear scroll engine like a A series.

I'm guessing Jack for a crankcase breather still has the orignal draft tube which is totally open to the atmosphere.
 
Yep open to the world. Think I got it Hap, we will see of course but surely a great improvement. Gesh it really leaked before maybe as much as a table spoon.

Think I will add a cotter key with next pull, just in case.
 
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