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XK150 Crankshaft Seals

vettedog72

Jedi Knight
Offline
I saw this in the XK catalog and hope some one has experience with this. If you do, please tell me you opinion.
Updated Teflon Crankshaft Seal. This seal won’t leak. Can be
fitted to all 6-cylinder engines that do not use the rope front
seal. Highly recommended. ____________________ JA-10527
Note: Jaguar recommends fitment of C40147 spacer and JAEAC8101
o-ring when updating to the Teflon seal. We feel this is
not absolutely necessary. However, the oil slinger must be
removed as this seal must be kept wet. JA-10527 includes the
Teflon seal plus the rear crank rope seals, rear sump rubber seal,
oil pump o-rings, and relief-tube-to-sump o-ring.
 
I used the front kit for my 3.8. IT works fine installed as recommended. The rear seal is another story--leaks a lot. I don't know of a cure.
bd
 
I have used the updated front seal kit and they work fine. It is how the Series III XJ6 came from the factory , I think. But the last seven or eight XK engines I've built I went back to the old system. The oil leak is actually between the crankshaft and the 'distance piece' (p/n C2173). I seal the area where the two parts mate and have had no problem with oil leaks from the front. Two of the above mentioned engines were 'slinger type' rear seals and will always have a little oil residue around the pan area. The rope seals are tricky but seem to work fine if installed carefully. I roll them into the grove with a 5/8" round brass drift using sealer as a lubricant.

Alan T
 
Alan:
I need to get the block, crank, head, etc. to a machine shop that has done XK150 3.4l engines. Can you recommend one that you trust in the Atlanta area. I use to use Youngbloods but I probably don't even know anybody there anymore (if they are still in the biz) and it was for crankshaft work on non-British motors. Its ruff to be a has been. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
Yeow , I haven't heard the 'Youngblood' name in a long time. I think there is one of them still in the Carrollton (very west GA)area. I have used a machine shop in north Atlanta area for the past twenty or so years. The last two I had machined there were XK150S engines. One stock and the other uprated. Both turned out exactly as I wanted. Send a PM for more info.

Alan T
 
I found another partial solution to the crankshaft oil seal:

Replacing the sump gaskets is pretty straightforward, they are in
two parts and fit betwen the flange of the sump and bottom of the
block. Then there is the rear sump seal (cork strip on early
engines) which fits in a rebate at the rear of the block. I
recommend using a high temp silicon sealant as a belt and bracers
seal and to help hold in position the two part gasket whilst you
offer up the sump. Replacing the front seal is a little more
complicated as it is a circular rubber seal that fits onto the end
of the crank which means removing timing cover, pulleys etc and
possibly the cylinder head (although I chanced it without). If I
remember I used the front seal for an XJ40 on mine as I found it of
superior quality (and it fitted).
Unfortunately my rear crank seal still leaks like a sieve so I
STILL dump a shedload of oil onto my nice new driveway.
PS Don't forget that the oil banjos at the rear of the engine are
prone to leakage which can run down and give the appearance of
leaky sump/crank.
Good luck

Richard
Chelmsford
UK
Anybody else tried the XJ40 seal on the front of an XK150 CS?
 
"The oil leak is actually between the crankshaft and the 'distance piece' (p/n C2173). I seal the area where the two parts mate and have had no problem with oil leaks from the front."

Alan, can you please explain that a bit further? What do you seal it with?
 
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