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Wondow crank

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I don't think so Rich.

It's been a while, so my memory may be off.

The window winder assembly is behind the metal door frame skin. So no in-wards adjustment, but you can move it out towards the body by adding washers as spacers. But that would be the opposite of what your trying to do.

The window winder plate holes line up with the door skin holes and tightened in place by the screws. So no adjustment getting the shaft to exit any farther, being it's stopped by the metal skin.

The shaft handle is fixed and has a hole though it, near the end for the pin that hold the handle on. Maybe, and I would consider this as a last resort, is to drill another hole, opposite the current hole, in the shaft closer to the end of the shaft. But be sure to leave enough of the shaft to enter the handle shaft opening. I doubt you'd get a half inch though.

What changed since you took the car apart for the paint shop?
Are you putting the same door panels back on or did you make new ones?

If you made new ones, your door panel may be the problem.
What did you use for the panel material?
How thick is it? (Same as original board?)
How thick is the foam padding/matt behind the vinyl skin?
If the padding is too thick, cut some away under the escutcheon.
Remember to replace or add some water resistant covering to the door before installing the panel.

Roger
 
There are already another set of holes at ninety degrees on the shaft. Nothing changed. The previous wood was bent in too. The new wood is 1/8 inch the old one was thicker. The pad is minimum thickness. I do have a sheet of plastic to weatherproof.
The problem is the paneling is bowed inward separating it form the lower panel.
 
tahoe healey said:
Nothing changed. The previous wood was bent in too. The new wood is 1/8 inch the old one was thicker.
The problem is the paneling is bowed inward separating it form the lower panel.
Click to expand...

Nothing changed?
You had the 1/8 inch panel on before and no problem?
Or this is your new 1/8 inch replacement panel and now there's a fit problem?

Sounds like a warped panel? If it does not fit flush enough against the metal door panel, then the shaft will not extend out enough to get the crank handle on. Is this the situation?

Rich, not clear what you're saying. Can you post a photo of what you're describing?

Roger
 
If you are VERY careful you might be able to extend the square extension of the crank mechanism by cutting and splicing a small section onto it. Have a good day!

John
 
anthony7777 said:
ausmhly, hes not happy with problem of the old 1/8 wood being "bowed in", and now with new 1/8" wood hes still has the same problem.
Click to expand...

Something just isn't right here.
The "old" was thicker than 1/8". The new is thiner at 1/8"
I would assume at one time the "old" panel was on the door.

Sounds like it's the panel that needs attention, not the shaft.

What is the measurement from the metal door skin where the shaft come through, to the back of the door handle crank when the pin is in the handle, no panel on the car.

Even if the door skin got bent out, the crank mechanism gets screwed flush up to it. So the amount of the shaft coming out, would not change.

This is an interesting problem solver you have here Rich.
 
AUSMHLY said:
anthony7777 said:
ausmhly, hes not happy with problem of the old 1/8 wood being "bowed in", and now with new 1/8" wood hes still has the same problem.
Click to expand...

Something just isn't right here.
The "old" was thicker than 1/8". The new is thiner at 1/8"
I would assume at one time the "old" panel was on the door.

Sounds like it's the panel that needs attention, not the shaft.

What is the measurement from the metal door skin where the shaft come through, to the back of the door handle crank when the pin is in the handle, no panel on the car.

Even if the door skin got bent out, the crank mechanism gets screwed flush up to it. So the amount of the shaft coming out, would not change.

This is an interesting problem solver you have here Rich.
Click to expand...
I think it would be great to see some photos because I'm having a hard time visualizing the problem. I've owned my BJ8 since about '73 and have taken the doors and interior panels off many times but never had a window crank fit problem.
Patrick
Patrick
 
:whistle:
I wonder where that 1/2" rubber of foam pad is that fits around the window crank shaft and goes between the door panel and the dore frame.____Keoke- :frown:
 
Not sure what Keoke is referring to.
The old panel was bowed too. That is why I replace it. The crank pulled the panel in causing the bow. What I need is some way to push the assembly inboard. This has nothing to do with the foam and vinyl.
As stated above the previous panel was thicker than the 1/8th I've got in there now.
 
Here's a pic that Keoke is refering too, its the foam rings that were glued to the vapour barrier under the door interior panel:

doorinsidepanel1.jpg


cheers Andy
 
TH,

Is the metal door area where the assembly gets attached pushed in?
If so, that would explain why the shaft does not stick out enough.
The wood panel being flat over an indentation will cause the gap.
Pulling in the wooden panel would cause the bow.

Bring the car over and I'll perform my paintless dent removal www.dentfree.us I mean my metal messaging of a Healey inside door skin back to flat level, meet flat level wood panel position. Or just have the local PDR guy (who owns and has done a restoration on his Healey) do it. Hey, that's British metal you know. Special dent tools for British metal, and boy do we charge extra for it.
Roger
 
No foam and every thing is straight. Both panels are doing the same thing. Could my cranks be the wrong ones? Anyone have a picture of the proper cranks?
 
HI TH, Maybe someone can measure the length of the crank's spindel for you that has a car in the restoration process.I can not viualize what your problem is.--Keoke
 
:iagree: As per Keoke's point, on my car the crank protrudes from the face of the fixing panel that it is fixed to by 2.1/8". Also if I put a straight edge across the door outside edges, the crank only protrudes 1/8" indicating the interior panel must have to bow in towards the crank slightly.

Before you try bending the fixing panel inside the door, note that the quarterlight also is fixed to this and if you bend it, it will alter the angle of the top of the quarterlight, so it may not meet the screen at the top :madder:

I have only just put my quarterlights, windows etc in, and have not fitted the door card in yet.

DSCN0799.jpg


cheers Andy
 
Andy and Roger, I sent you a PM. Not to hijack the thread, but I'm about where Andy appears to be in the door assembly process and could really use some pics of the upper door/window area. How do those inner/outter seals/brushs fit?? Any and all pics appreciated. Roger, you may also have some? You can sent to my email address so as not to completely take this off track.

Thanks,
Steve Thomton
https://stevesaustinhealey.com
 
If this problem is a new Moss crank contacting the upholstered panel: the Moss knob protrudes too far compared to the original and should be carefully ground back. I have two small tears on the drivers side door panel due to this.
 
Well Steve, I guess you will get some good info off line. However, if you look at the top of the door picture provided by Andy you will see the clips and their location . They are those small black items seen along the top of the door panel.OH!! by the way a "Door Card" is a door panel--Keoke :laugh:
 
Steve for everyones benefit:

Leave everything loosish ie the quarter light screws top and bottom.
Fit the clips to the brush seal and then clip these to the inner door/ window edge.
The rear window channel (as Roger noted) can be packed with washers between the door edge and channel to make the window tighter or adjust angle top and bottom (all depends on how glass was pressed into its holding track).
Use the brush seal to help you put window in (to stop scratches) and before you offer it in make sure the window arm is wound fully up.
As the window goes in (may be tight on back adge but will get easier as the window tapers) wind the window arm to catch the roller in the window bottom track. Nip everything up slightly.
Wind window down and then up a few times to get the nylon guides to bed in.
You may need to take out and put washers in rear track here. Unfortunately window needs to come back out.
Then wind window down and check quarterlight against screen with door closed, you may need washers here or some gentle persuasion on the inner fixing panel to adjust in / out.
If everything looks good, tighten it all down and wind the window down.
Then get the rubber outer seal and clip it to the chrome door top (off the car and with the lift a dot fastener fitted - may need to grind the threads shorter)
The 's' clip goes so that the 'u' is fitted to sandwich the rubber and chrome and then the other 'n' as you look at it is on the inside of the chrome (so the door skin is held within the chrome. You then offer the chrome door top to the front edge of the door top so the lip locates over the door and then try to push the clips down till the rear edge of the chrome is down and located in the rear groove / lip.
I had to grind the thread off the back of the lift a dot as these are longer than the originals and push the chrome top off the door front lip as you push down.
I also had new padded door tops so before fitting the window I offered these up and used an angled scribe thru the window, thru the old fixing holes to mark the new metal in the door pad tops.
One thing to remember for the future is that the screws that hold the door pull handle have a tendancy to be too long and scratch your new windows :madder: as you wind it up (may be due to a reduced thickness of interior door panel / vapor barrier etc). Apparently its worth while cutting the tip off the screws just in case :wink:.
Unfortunately pictues dont help much as you cant see much except the fitted chrome top!
hope this helps cheers Andy
 
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