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TR6 wiring

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sundown

sundown

Jedi Hopeful
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New problem I am blowing the fuse for the blinkers, brake light, gas and temp gauge this happened all of a sudden?
 
There's more on that fuse than what you've listed... the fan motor switch.. There is a wire on that switch that might be contacting metal.
 
How readily does the fuse blow -- i.e. as soon as the battery is connected, when the ignition is switched on, when a device is used or just randomly sometime later?

I use an old headlamp (Lucas in fact) that has a couple of test leads w/alligator clip attached to it -- connected in place of the fuse, it will shine brightly when there is a dead short in the circuit. Sort of a reusable fuse.

You can then determine if it is the use of one of these items that is causing the blow or if the fault is in the ignition switch, etc. prior to their use.
 
If by blower you mean the heater fan motor - it would be strange that it operates with the fuse for the turn signals, brakes, and other green wire circuits is blown. Headlamps would not be affected though, I do not think they are fused.

You might want to mention what year you have though I don't think the area you're dealing with varies much by year.
 
It's 1973 orginal wiring. I guess I better have a supply of fuses for chasing this. They are 35 amp fuses, in the fuse block the top one is a spare next is for the green lines what are the other 2 fuses jobs?
 
Last edited:
sundown said:
It's 1973 orginal wiring. I guess I better have a supply of fuses for chasing this. They are 35 amp fuses, in the fuse block the top one is a spare next is for the green lines what are the other 2 fuses jobs?
Click to expand...
Much better to use an old headlight bulb as Geo suggested. If you don't have one, I'd go as far as buying a new spare and using that. Afterwards you can keep it until needed as a replacement.

Hopefully everyone knows this, but I'll repeat it anyway : Those "35 amp" ratings are in an obscure, obsolete rating system. If you use common AGC type fuses, you want a 20 amp rating, not 35 amp. An AGC 35 will probably not blow, even if you have a short.
 
Definitely a good idea to have a copy of the owner's manual. Reprints are available from the usual suspects.

The bottom fuse is for all the tail, marker, dash, etc. lights that are controlled by the headlight switch (except the headlights themselves).

The fuse next to the bottom is for everything else that works with the ignition off, like horns, courtesy lights, "flash to pass" feature and so on.
 
sundown said:
That's strange that the blower is on that circuit the blower works and also the headlights work?
Click to expand...
The headlights don't rely on any fuse. Get a short in that wiring and it's smoke city!
But the heater blower should definitely rely on the #2 fuse. If it doesn't, then someone has made a change somewhere. Since evidently it isn't the heater switch blowing the fuse, my next step might be to start comparing the wiring to the diagram and try to spot the modifications.

When I got Stag #2, there was a big black wire hanging down under the dash that had been cut and left. Sure looked like it was a ground wire. Good thing I never tried to ground it, though, as I eventually discovered that the other end was attached to the always hot, unfused, brown circuit! My point is that, with the end of the wire just left cut, it could have swung around and grounded on something. DPO-isms are always suspect.

On Stag #1, there was a wire that broke right at the terminal. It would short to ground only while driving uphill ...
 
Certainly a possibility, but not very likely. I've never heard of one failing that way. Internally, they have only a very small resistance wire to ground, so even if there were a short in the coil, it would be more likely to burn up the wire than blow the fuse.
 
I think I found the culprit it's the hazard switch relay. I had the battery disconnected for obvious reasons. I think the relay was on it's way out because tonight when I went to connect the battery heard clicking noise which yesterday that was not happening. Disconnected the relay everything back to normal. What else is on that relay?
 
In your car because the wires have been apparently rearranged as evidenced by what you found concerning the fan motor, there is no telling..
But if you want to see how it's supposed to be, open the link that George so kindly provided you with and check it out.
 
Do you mean the hazard flasher? I thought you were blowing the bottom fuse? As Ken says, sounds like some more creative wiring involved.
 
Yes the hazard relay near the fuse box . The fuse block I have is the top slot is for an extra fuse next down green wire connections next purple wire connections final one red wire connections sound right?
 
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