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Winter storage
- Thread starter dndkk
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sparkydave
Jedi Knight
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I've been storing my Midget over the winter in my unheated back garage. I've had good luck just putting the fuel stabilizer in the tank and driving around for a few miles to get it up to the carburetor. Other than that, I disconnect the battery in the event something goes awry or a rodent gets into the wiring. Check on the antifreeze to make sure it's at the right mixture. I leave the parking brake off in the event that the brake shoes decide to stick. I also close off the ventilation ducts to keep rodents out of the heater core, but I'm not sure how a TR6 ventilation system is setup. Hope this helps!
G
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Thats pretty much what I do to. Stabilizer in the tank, drive around for a while so that it works its way into the rest of the fuel system. It's also a good idea to make sure you store the car with a full tank, you then have less headspace in the tank for moisture to form in, which will not only keep water out of the gas but cut down on rust forming in the tank itself. I would recommend a good battery maintainer, a trickle charger with an automatic overload protection. This way when the battery reaches full charge the maintainer shuts off, then comes back on again when the charge level drops. I have a small one thats actually mounted in the engine bay. I just run an extension cord up through the front valence and plug her in, has kept my battery in top shape for years.
Besides the other items mentioned I would suggest that if you know you are not going to drive the car at all over the cold months to get it up on blocks. This will prevent the tires from flat spotting if the car sits for a long time. If you don't do this make sure you take the car out at least a few times over the winter just to get the tires rolling and the spot they rested on moved. Also, some people like to throw packs of silica gel into the footwells, can keep moisture and later musty odors from forming. Of course make sure the antifreeze is fresh and at the right concentration, and the point Dave made about the E-brake is excellent, release that thing and block the wheels. Nothing worse than getting excited about that first springtime drive and not being able to disengage the parking brake.
Besides the other items mentioned I would suggest that if you know you are not going to drive the car at all over the cold months to get it up on blocks. This will prevent the tires from flat spotting if the car sits for a long time. If you don't do this make sure you take the car out at least a few times over the winter just to get the tires rolling and the spot they rested on moved. Also, some people like to throw packs of silica gel into the footwells, can keep moisture and later musty odors from forming. Of course make sure the antifreeze is fresh and at the right concentration, and the point Dave made about the E-brake is excellent, release that thing and block the wheels. Nothing worse than getting excited about that first springtime drive and not being able to disengage the parking brake.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Everybody's got their own 'recipe' for this. I prefer to remove the battery altogether as that takes little time and eliminates the risk of an acid leak. Also lets you put the battery somewhere above freezing if that is a concern.
You may want to take precautions against rodents if that is likely where you are storing. They probably can't get to the interior but they will do unkind things to the underhood wiring loom. A few bars of Irish Spring seem to work better than moth balls and give the underhood area a 'nice manly scent'. One of those ultrasonic rodent repellers plugged into the end of an extension cord (if AC available) may help... I use one.
I do not think modern tires (steel belted radials) are prone to flat-spotting as were old bias tires. I have certainly parked in one spot for a year w/o that problem.
One problem you may encounter is the clutch 'freezing' up. I know of no sure preventative (have had it happen twice) but getting in the car and depressing the clutch pedal once every few weeks might help... otherwise there are easy (albeit dramatic) ways to free a stuck clutch.
Other minor problem I have encountered is losing the points gap during a long sit. I probably didn't tighten the screw well enough... generally I do not want to over-tighten that one and may go too easy on it.
What a world... this weekend marks the beginning of our prime driving season in Arizona and here we are reviewing winter storage. Quite a few of our local club members are Canadian and will be joining us soon after taking their US cars out of summer storage -- now those guys have the formula right.
You may want to take precautions against rodents if that is likely where you are storing. They probably can't get to the interior but they will do unkind things to the underhood wiring loom. A few bars of Irish Spring seem to work better than moth balls and give the underhood area a 'nice manly scent'. One of those ultrasonic rodent repellers plugged into the end of an extension cord (if AC available) may help... I use one.
I do not think modern tires (steel belted radials) are prone to flat-spotting as were old bias tires. I have certainly parked in one spot for a year w/o that problem.
One problem you may encounter is the clutch 'freezing' up. I know of no sure preventative (have had it happen twice) but getting in the car and depressing the clutch pedal once every few weeks might help... otherwise there are easy (albeit dramatic) ways to free a stuck clutch.
Other minor problem I have encountered is losing the points gap during a long sit. I probably didn't tighten the screw well enough... generally I do not want to over-tighten that one and may go too easy on it.
What a world... this weekend marks the beginning of our prime driving season in Arizona and here we are reviewing winter storage. Quite a few of our local club members are Canadian and will be joining us soon after taking their US cars out of summer storage -- now those guys have the formula right.
Mark Jones
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Doug;
I have a copy of a winterizing article I can send you if you like. It appeared in Spitfire & GT6 magazine last winter. Just send me an email if you would like a copy of it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
I have a copy of a winterizing article I can send you if you like. It appeared in Spitfire & GT6 magazine last winter. Just send me an email if you would like a copy of it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
trboost
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Why not just drive it on nice winter days. You'll benefit from more driving pleasure & the car will benefit from keeping engine & driveline components ( seals, u-joints, cylinder head, trany ) lubricated.
When I was in High school (yea, they had cars back then) , my TR6 was my only form of transportation. When I think back of all the places winter & summer this car took me, with out ever getting stranded, I'm amazed. I never thought twice about getting in and driving three or four hundred miles away for the week end. The car has more than ample heat.
Now I still take long trips but you would think I was getting ready to go to the moon, with a check list and tech session that borders on lunacy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.
As long as the roads are snow & salt free , I use it. I completly understand & agree these cars will not last long in foul weather, & may undo all the hard work & time invested especialy if you built a show car but there are definit advantages to not letting the car remain dormant for many months.
When I was in High school (yea, they had cars back then) , my TR6 was my only form of transportation. When I think back of all the places winter & summer this car took me, with out ever getting stranded, I'm amazed. I never thought twice about getting in and driving three or four hundred miles away for the week end. The car has more than ample heat.
Now I still take long trips but you would think I was getting ready to go to the moon, with a check list and tech session that borders on lunacy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.
As long as the roads are snow & salt free , I use it. I completly understand & agree these cars will not last long in foul weather, & may undo all the hard work & time invested especialy if you built a show car but there are definit advantages to not letting the car remain dormant for many months.
My 2cents: From a post I made last Fall.
Having stored boats for 5-6 mos. in New England, one thing I have been told & tend to believe in is that storing a full tank is not necc. My understanding is that the breakdown in the octane is worse than the moisture as moisture can be kept to a minimum with stabilizer/dry gas. The thing is if you fill the tank with 90% new fuel in the spring the dead gas & any moisture will be diluted to a small percentage.
My Grady hold 90 gals & I usually leave less than 1/2 in with Stabil & have yet to have a problem One thing I do is to fill the tank with stabil & run the engine for 1/2 hour or so to circulate the stabil into the carbs. I actually have a disposable fuel filter I change, & pour some Stabil directly into it. Could do something similar with your LBC if you have a filter at the pump or an in-line filter.
Having stored boats for 5-6 mos. in New England, one thing I have been told & tend to believe in is that storing a full tank is not necc. My understanding is that the breakdown in the octane is worse than the moisture as moisture can be kept to a minimum with stabilizer/dry gas. The thing is if you fill the tank with 90% new fuel in the spring the dead gas & any moisture will be diluted to a small percentage.
My Grady hold 90 gals & I usually leave less than 1/2 in with Stabil & have yet to have a problem One thing I do is to fill the tank with stabil & run the engine for 1/2 hour or so to circulate the stabil into the carbs. I actually have a disposable fuel filter I change, & pour some Stabil directly into it. Could do something similar with your LBC if you have a filter at the pump or an in-line filter.
myspitfire
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Suggestions for winter storage; all the threads here are great suggestions. PLUS
replace the air in the tires with NITROGEN.
1.Nitrogen doesn't support oxidation
2.Tires don't rot from the inside
3.Its dry
4.non-flammable
5.tires hold pressure without pressure variations
6.saves on gas
7.Tires last longer.
8.Usually garages so equipted charge very little or nothing.
just a labor charge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif Ken
replace the air in the tires with NITROGEN.
1.Nitrogen doesn't support oxidation
2.Tires don't rot from the inside
3.Its dry
4.non-flammable
5.tires hold pressure without pressure variations
6.saves on gas
7.Tires last longer.
8.Usually garages so equipted charge very little or nothing.
just a labor charge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif Ken
Bob Claffie
Jedi Knight
Offline
My system is much easier, takes less time and is proven over many, many years. Fill tank, drive in garage, turn off. In the spring 50% chance it will start without a jump or recharge. Drive out of garage. Has worked on Corvette's, MGB's, and a Lotus Elan, forgot to mention it also worked on both a GProd and FProd Spitfires. Storage period is mid-Nov to mid-April. No problems. Bob