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Winter layup

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IanIrving

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My car is in the northern hemisphere and I'm just about to head off south for the winter. What do you guys suggest is required when laying a car up for the winter. I don't expect to start it again until around April 2011.
My ideas are wheels off the ground and battery disconnected. Do I have to do anything with the fuel in the tank, better left full or low? etc. What are your views about battery conditioners?
Thanks for any advice
Ian Irving
BJ8 phase II
 
Not sure if wheels off the ground is best? I mothball my car for the winter (in a heated garage), and I just overinflate the tires a little, fill the tank (to reduce condensation), fresh oil/filter, disconnect the battery (and store it someplace above freezing), parking brake released, put the top up (hood), and cover it with a breathable cover. Some folks use fuel stabilizer. That's about it.

I'm sure others here will have good suggestions.
 
I have wintered my car in Michigan for 29 years. All I do is cover it in my unheated garage, fill the gas tank with fresh gas and add Stabil (about 5 oz. for 12 gal. of gasoline). I also periodically charge the battery with a 1-2amp charger periodically, but if you're going away and can't do it, I'd remove the battery from the car and keep it in your basement where it is warmer. Then recharge when you get back in the spring and see if it works. I've had no trouble with the tires leaving them on the ground. I've never thought of adding additional air, but that might work.
 
I would keep the tires on the ground as to not induce frame flex for such a long time,Just lay down a large plastic tarp under the car as a mosture barrier and park the tires on wood to reduce deflation of your tires. It would be best to keep the battery in a warm basement and on a battery tender and fill the tank and add stabil to the fuel and run the motor so the treated fuel runs through the lines and carbs. I would also put a light film of WD 40 on all the chrome and bright work, close the windows, doors and top tight so mice don't get to your interior and lay down 4-6 mice traps along the side's of your walls in the garage and check them a few times a week! Never leave food in the garage as well, Put a breathable cover over the car and your set!
 
I have stored cars for the winter many times for many years, never used sta-bil, never had problems with gas, I guess you could put it in the category of cant hurt might help, just saying 4-5 months haven't had a problem.

Haven't put it on blocks, haven't had problems with flat spots on the tires, would disconnect the battery and store in warm dry (well ventilated) space, if mice or creatures are a concern would take some preventative measures, and do what you can to limit moisture exposure and dust.
 
Nobody has mentioned the radiator or brake fluid. I left a car for two years while working overseas and the result was the heater valve corroding away due to old antifreeze becoming acidic and also the aluminium brake cylinders all got a white-ish stuff growing on the outside from reaction with brake fluid. I ended up resleeving them all (new at the time) some years later as they were quite pitted, I think if I'd been more considerate during the lay up time they'd have done better.

Also, all the tyres became permanently out of round from sitting on concrete and I put up with it for a number of years then replaced them.

If I were to lay up a car again, I'd:
--Shoot some cavity wax over any surface rust or other areas that I "probably should" get around to doing something about (it provides a barrier to moisture and is easy to wash off with kero later if required)
--Drain, flush and refill the radiator with correct antifreeze/corrosion solution if not done in the last few years
--Syphon and refill the brake/clutch reservoir(s) then bleed the entire system if not done in the last few years
--Lift all the wheel cylinder rubber boots and apply a wipe of rubber grease to the pistons if not done in the last few years
--Give the battery to a friend for his car, I have a love/hate relationship with batteries.
--Lift the car onto axle stands, if nothing else it makes it considerably harder to steal.
--Polish all the brightwork with a good brand metal polish
--Polish up the paintwork and cover the car with a soft breathable cover

But the thing is I'm lazy and probably won't actually do any of that...

Andy.

PS I saw these Dri Plugs which replace the spark plugs and absorb any moisture in the engine. Don't think I'd bother with them though.
 
57_BN4 said:
--Give the battery to a friend for his car, I have a love/hate relationship with batteries.
Click to expand...

This is greatness.

I always say that I love toys and hate batteries and carburetors.

Interestingly, my kiddos Chinese 4-wheelers (70's era Honda engine copy) never have issues. Everything else I own seems to hate me if I don't "visit" enough.

Well - except for the '92 SE-R LeMons car. Fuel injection is awesome for a car that gets ignored most of the year. And - the Wesco Miata battery never misses a beat.

I'm about to find out how bad the carbs are in the '62 Healey when I try to start it. I just have to figure our which car to barrow the battery from.....

Grover
 
Thanks for the advice guys, the sun has come out again for a while so my layup has a brief reprieve, a few more rides before she sleeps. Lots of good ideas and good to have others experience, particulary ref the battery. No one mentioned modern battery conditioners so I asume they are thought not necessary.

Ian
 
I use a battery tender on my gray car (01 BMW ///M Rdstr) as it doesn't get a lot of use (annual 800-1000mi). I got tired of buying BMW replacement batteries for it.

I'll buy another one for my Healey, when I get around to it...

They definitely work, and their cost ($30-$50, depending on source) is far cheaper than even the most economical of batteries, not to mention the pure waste.
 
Hi Irving, good idea to lift off the ground, just make sure you place a small block of wood under the front shocks to keep from smashing the rubber buffer. Personally I wouldn't use a battery tender on a Healey battery that knowone will be watching. I've heard they can start a fire somehow or at least maybe cook your battery. Just remove it and store indoors. Use a fuel stabilizer.

BTW did you know they now have a special "Stabil" for Ethanol addtitive in fuels? I bought a bottle and plan to use it this winter.

Rodents love leather BTW, I use "Mouse Magic" and it seems to work.
 
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