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TR2/3/3A windshield post 60k tr3

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sp53

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Hi all I am putting the windshield (frame and all) on a post 60k tr3 and had have some concerns about damaging the paint. Should I put some tape or something on the body tub of the vehicle, or perhaps some thin tape on the frame, or just go for it? On my per 60k, I remove the windshield, but I usually do not because of running into some problem that would scratch the paint. Anyways I have never put the windshield on a post 60k car and any tips are much appreciated.
Steve
 
First of all, as far as I'm concerned, it was stupid of Triumph to go to the screw on stanchions. The dzus fastener type that slides on is a much better arrangement. That said, my original body had the dzus type, but the body was so bad, that I got a post 60k at a fire sale price (literally, but that's another story). I had to get a whole mess of stuff to use that body, and of course, the screw on stanchions was one of them.

After I assembled the whole windscreen, I went to put it on the car, and thought the same thing you are thinking now. The big problem I ran into was the the fit of the stanchions to the body wasn't close with the windscreen fully assembled. I had to loosen the stanchion to windscreen screws, start the big screws into the body and work back and forth until everything was snugged down. By this time, I had forgot about putting in some gasket material that I had decided to use between the stanchions and the body. Too late now, I don't ever want to have to remove this again. :hammer:

However, if I did do it over, I would put those gaskets in. I doubt there was anything in there originally, as by this time, Triumph really didn't think you should be removing the windscreen on a regular basis. After all, they did eliminate the aero screen attachments and a lot of other neat stuff because of costs.

OK, rant over... :smile: I'd put some gasket material in there.

Edit: One more thing. If you are using new stanchion mounting screws (the big ones) from one of the after market suppliers, check the fit into the recesses before you go to mount things up. I found that the heads were just a tad too tight, and may need some fitting.
 
The later bolt on windscreen staunchions were bad news. It's really easy to damage the paint while removing or fitting the screen. With no gaskets or joiner plates, water gets in and rusts the fixing bolts over time too.

If custom making up staunchion gaskets, good long-life gasket material is found in a Tupperware type flexible plastic container lid.

When fitting the later staunchions, using masking tape on the adjoining paintwork is a good idea to save accidental scratches. It's also best handled as a two person job, one carefully positioning each side.



Viv.
 
Thanks you guys for your help. I think I live in a parallel universe with Art on the other side of the country. While I was reading you post, I could see myself doing it that same way with the same opinions. Did you scratch the paint, Art? I might have a problem with the dash capping if I put the windshield on first. Does anyone know if I would trap myself from getting the screws for the tonoue cover in? And I will most definitely look into the Tupperware products.
Steve
 
I read this psot with interest as my car has post 6k square back seat tub,but came with disassembled windshield and the Dzuz fastener stantions,missing one plate.
Do I need to get the screwed staantions to match my body,or will the early Dzus plates line up with the holes in my body
Is the windshield and frame the same ?

Thanks
Tom
 
The dzus stanchion plates fit into large, oval shaped holes in the body, and are held on by several screws. If all you have in your body are the two threaded holes, you will have to use the stanchions made for that application. The others (dzus type) will not work.

You could modify the post 60k body to accept the dzus plates, which now that I think about it is exactly what I should have done!

Edit: BTW, I've run into four different types of stanchions, but only one type was for the dzus fasteners. The other three were for the bolt on type. You can see them in this thread.
 
Read this thread and its link and photos.lots of good info.
I think I have 6K+ tub.
All three included stantions have dzuz fastener screws hanging out of them,but the only plate I have has two holes only,that line up with holes in tub,no wire for dzus.The tub has on bolt stuck in stantion mount hole,broken off,and other 3 are just holes.Maybe the captive nuts broke loose on other side.Will check tonite.
if I can find another spacer plate I think I can remove the dzus scrwes and thru bolt the stantions and spacer.
Thanks
Tom
 
martx-5 said:
... BTW, I've run into four different types of stanchions, but only one type was for the dzus fasteners. The other three were for the bolt on type. You can see them in this thread.
Click to expand...

Art - awesome historic thread. Thanks for drawing attention to it.
 
Hi There Luke,

I just was cruising thru ebay & noticed that you have several items for sale relative to a TR3. Its too darn bad you don`t have what I`m looking for. Nice Bumper, Front & Rear Overriders. I would be very, very int. in an Orig. looking Luggage Rack as well. Who out has one For Sale?

Thanx, Russ
 
toysrrus said:
.... Its too darn bad you don`t have what I`m looking for. Nice Bumper, Front & Rear Overriders. .....?

Thanx, Russ
Click to expand...

Hi Russ - I just listed 2 nice (but used) front overriders yesterday for a reasonable price. Not concurs but nice ones. I was going to post the rear overriders and front bumper this weekend! I can send pix off ebay if you wish.
 
toysrrus said:
I would be very, very int. in an Orig. looking Luggage Rack as well.
Click to expand...
FWIW, TRF sells a decent replica of the original luggage rack. The chrome isn't quite as good, though, they advise keeping it waxed to prevent rust. (Looks good to my eye though.)

I didn't like what the rubber feet did to my paint, so next time I install it I will either put plastic under the rubber, or do as others have suggested and make some new feet from poly or delrin.
 
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