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Windshield Installation

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Randy_Gay

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Does anyone have any words of wisdom on installing 100-4 windshield glass in its frame? Should the split in the glazing bead be on the bottom or the top, and how should the corners be handled?

Thanks,
Randy
 
I don't think it much matters where the split in the glazing is. It is not someting that shows and for me water drainage is not an issue as I would die before letting the car get really wet, after all the rust repair I had to do during the rebuild. I am really responding to give my thoughts about the glazing material I bought from Moss or VB (I can't remember which). It was really too thick to install the glass by a long shot. I ended up using a very heavy black PVC tape instead. It would have put way too much stress on the glass and getting the corner screws into the angle brackets was not possible (and yes, my glass is original as is the frame). I simply put the tape on to the thickness I found just right, and then trimmed it after the frame was assembled. It stretched enough to avoid wrinkles at the corners. If sealing the frame is an issue, I suggest a very fine bead of polyeurathane or silicone sealant. Do not over-do the sealant if you think you might ever replace the wind screen. Silicone can be mighty tough to break free and remove. Also, be sure your screws are short enough and don't hit the edge of the glass when you install them. Nothing makes you feel much better than putting the wind screen on after years of work.
 
What is this about a split in the glazing bead? "Uncured rubber" should be used for the Healey windscreen. This material does not try to return to its original shape when deformed. The only splits should be in the corners which can be mitred for assembling the frame around the glass.
Vintage car suppliers should be able to supply this material.
 
Hello all,

I need to re-hash this old thread as I am about to go through this process on my BN2. Randy's pictures are all gone from the above link :(. I have the glass clayed and cleaned of previous rubber, the frame pieces are re-chromed and the uprights are painted body color. I also have a roll of the new, supposedly correct thickness glazing rubber from British Car Specialists. The windshield was dis-assembled by the restoration shop and the last time I witnessed this done was when my Dad owned the car some 35 years ago. I was only 10 or so at the time and remember watching them do it but can't remember exactly what they did to get it back together.

Besides the obvious procedural question, most of which is answered in text in the link (would really like to see pictures), I do have a question about the screws. First, what do the screws look like that hold the chrome end frame pieces to the painted uprights? They are completely missing. The little screws that go into the corner brackets are there but the ones I have are three or four different lengths and you can tell they have been ground to various lengths. What is the thread and length of those supposed to be?

Thanks in advance,
Walt
 
Not "gone", just moved: https://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/Healey/chromeplating_work

Then there's always this to fall back on: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?87604-Randy-s-Healey-pictures-links&highlight=randy%27s+healey+pictures

Keep in mind that these were pictures of a fixed 6-clyinder windshield...

ws_007.jpg
 
roscoe said:
I don't think it much matters where the split in the glazing is. It is not someting that shows and for me water drainage is not an issue as I would die before letting the car get really wet, after all the rust repair I had to do during the rebuild. I am really responding to give my thoughts about the glazing material I bought from Moss or VB (I can't remember which). It was really too thick to install the glass by a long shot. I ended up using a very heavy black PVC tape instead. It would have put way too much stress on the glass and getting the corner screws into the angle brackets was not possible (and yes, my glass is original as is the frame). I simply put the tape on to the thickness I found just right, and then trimmed it after the frame was assembled. It stretched enough to avoid wrinkles at the corners. If sealing the frame is an issue, I suggest a very fine bead of polyeurathane or silicone sealant. Do not over-do the sealant if you think you might ever replace the wind screen. Silicone can be mighty tough to break free and remove. Also, be sure your screws are short enough and don't hit the edge of the glass when you install them. Nothing makes you feel much better than putting the wind screen on after years of work.
Click to expand...
I was about to start this with the Moss glazing and can see that it would be difficult or impossible to get the screw holes to line up with brackets, so I'm going to try your vinyl tape solution. Why not!! I'm not going to be driving in the rain.
 
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