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MGB Windshield Frame removal questions.

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How the h#$* do you get to the top bolt? I've been trying for an hour. I can't even get a socket on it. And there is a screw between the two bolts, does it have to come out too?
 
Ah, yes - what fun! Unless you remove the dash, it's a real bear. Even then, it's no picnic. Been a while, but if memory serves...

On the passenger side, if you remove the glove box, you may have a better shot at it. And on the driver's side, try pulling the brake warning light thing (if so equipped). You may have to loosen the outboard dash mounting bolts so you (someone else, really) can pull it out a bit, as well.

Maybe someone who's had a bit more fun with them will chime in with more help.

Good luck!
Mickey
 
Thanks. I think I'll just go ahead and pull the dash first. It's all gotta come out anyway.
 
I was hoping to get it so I could remove the fenders first thing tomorrow.
 
The screw should not be removed. It holds the spacer in place. If I recall correct 77 and newer is easier than the earlier padded dash cars. Still a bear of a job. I have a snap on 9/16-1/4" flex socket that helps a lot for this job. Getting it out is the easy part!
 
A 9/16" ratcheting wrench usually does it for me. I can usually slide it in between the dash and the pillar to get it on the bolt head.

31ui4EiONmL.jpg
 
The ratcheting wrench is about the best solution, and as Bob said, getting it OUT is the easy part.

I'm on record here someplace as stating I'd rather do three MGB clutch replacements than one windshield R&R. :smirk:
 
If you use the attached bottom rubber, considering it's in good shape, then putting the frame back is not much of a problem, but if your installing a new bottom rubber, then that's a different story. Compressing a new rubber to get the bolts in takes a little doing. More than one windshield glass has been cracked while doing this. PJ
 
I have a 72 in the garage waiting for me to put a new windshield in. I am not pushing V.B. on the back order since the job sucks . I would also do 3 clutch jobs to one windshield if given the option.
 
They are not a problem. Have done some odd 25+ over the years, whilst converting pad facia cars to steel.

Well, their not a problem for me either, but for someone who hasn't done it before, it can be a problem not knowing the proper procedure. PJ
 
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One thing that helps me on reinstall is to use a 3/8" x 16 pilot tip bolt such as the GM or Ford body bolt. The OEM bolts are flat faced and difficult to get aligned and started. The GM/Ford bolts align themselves if you just get them in the hole. Also, the washer is captive so it won't fall out as you're trying to insert it.

If you really want to use the original bolts you can use these to install the screen and then swap them out one at a time for the OEM bolts and washers.

DV_WebLarge_I_P85414.jpg
 
The original bolts were tapered for this. You can load a spare nut in the socket to help. I have many short sockets, but probably don't?
 
One thing that helps me on reinstall is to use a 3/8" x 16 pilot tip bolt such as the GM or Ford body bolt. The OEM bolts are flat faced and difficult to get aligned and started. The GM/Ford bolts align themselves if you just get them in the hole. Also, the washer is captive so it won't fall out as you're trying to insert it.

If you really want to use the original bolts you can use these to install the screen and then swap them out one at a time for the OEM bolts and washers.

View attachment 46567

great idea - do Domestic car bolts come in fine thread?
 
Well, I finally got that bolt off today after loosening the dash a bit. And I used a ratchet wrench while prying up on the corner of the dash. The windshield is off... do I need to remove the spacer screws to remove the front fenders?
 
And after I got the dash off and looked closely at it, the answer is no. The spacer screws don't need to come out to remove the fenders. I may remove them after I take the fenders off anyway though. There is a lot of dirt in there.
 
JP, those windshield bolts are 3/8 course thread.

Here's a pic of one of them I just took out last week. Flat nose, no taper, 3/8 coarse thread.

Windscreen bolt.jpg.
 
JP, those windshield bolts are 3/8 course thread.

Here's a pic of one of them I just took out last week. Flat nose, no taper, 3/8 coarse thread.

View attachment 46724.

thanks! It has been a while since I did mine (Midget) but I hadn't realized it was Course thread - good to know! and still a great idea the bolts.
 
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