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Windshield frame in

hottvr

Jedi Warrior
Offline
A buddy who works for a British car shop came by today, and together we got the fram in in about a half hour. One thing he did that I didn't think about was removing the brake failure light (76 B) and using a 3/8 extension to get a straight shot at the upper screw. The glove box was already removed from the right side so that was easy. It definatly takes 2 people to put it back in. One to feed the screws in and one to manipulate the frame into position. Oh, and a 6 pack of Guiness.
Rick
 
congratulations.
 
Rick, How much trouble did you have setting the new rubber seal? What procedure did you use? How did you crush the new seal enough to get the bolts started? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif PJ
 
Congrats, good choice of beer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

PJ Wrote:

[ QUOTE ]
How did you crush the new seal enough to get the bolts started?

[/ QUOTE ]

That's #2 man's job. PUSH!

A Phillips screwdriver inna lower hole (orsuitable punch) can help lever it about some to line up the top holes, too.

'k Rick, when you're feelin' froggy c'mon down an' help with mine... I'll need a heads-up so's to get th' Guinness ahead of time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Hey Paul,
The rubber frame to body gasket was still good and so were the pillar gaskets. Doc got it exactly right. A person on top pushing down crushes enough to get the frame lined up with the screw holes. A phillips screwdriver helps align the spacer and screw holes. I found that my knee fits at the bottom of the pillar and I could use my body weight as leverage.Also, don't tighten the 2 bolts under the mirror. Leave about 4 or 5 threads loose.
Hey Doc, wouldn't mind tackeling that project again. It wasn't too bad.Is yours out right now?
Rick
 
Paul161- I took good old duct tape, 2 pcs long enough to cover the rubber from side to side, taped over one pc with the other so that no glue was exposed. I then took binder tine and started at one end , bent the rubber seal up, set the tape under it and tied it up over the windscreen every 4" across the screen. Then, set the screen in place, started the bolts on the center support, then the frame on either side. Once loosely secured, cut the string and pull out the duct tape, ta-da!
 
Thanks Robert, I'm going to try your method. And today, "The Jewel of The Pile" gets her new goggles. PJ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
Rick, it's "sitting" on the car, in place but I have to remove it one more time to align/drill the holes for the tonneau cover studs before I "nail it down" finally. It'll be a while before I'm ready to finish up. You could still come down for a visit, tho. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
THE WINDSHIELD IS IN !!! Used the rope trick and it was a chinch! I used a soft nylon rope. Instead of using the duct tape method though, I used two sheets of poly film on top of one another. It protected the paint and being very slipery, let the rubber move into position very easily. After it was in position, the poly slid out with little effort. No damage to the new paint! All I need now is to find out what sealer to use under the rubber without making a mess. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Sealer, no sealer that I know of. It is supose to fit.
 
I used a 3M sealer that came in a caulk tube. Don't remember what it was called, but the paint shop recommended it. It looks kind of like tar and does not harden. The best part is that any you get on the paint cleans off with naptha or grease and oil remover.
 
Thanks Greg, I'll get the 3M sealer and give it a shot. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif PJ
 
That's th' stuff! PITA to clean if you have to pull the frame later, but it beats wet feet and interior, hands down. Well worth the effort.
 
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