TR6 Windscreen removal advice

[blokey]

I am trying to remove the windscreen but the brackets are frozen onto the shafts. I know this is a common problem and I'm wondering what the current thinking is for freeing them up.

 

[glemon]

I had some difficulty with mine on the TR250. Penetrating oil if you can get some in there. Rock it back and forth over and over medium pressure, not enough to bend or break things, but hopefully enough to start breaking the rusty bonds holding it in. Tap the bottem with a hammer (with the nuts just over the end so you don't bugger up the threads.)

 

[blokey]

Thanks glemon, I have removed the dash in order to replace the dash top so the accessibility to the brackets are optimal. I've applied copious amounts of penetrating oil. So I'll see how it goes.

 

[Geo Hahn]

It's been so long I do not recall what all I did - but is it possible to spread the clamp just a bit, possibly with a wedge, wooden or otherwise?

Alternately, is it possible to undo the clamp from the body and twist it on the windscreen shaft?

Seems like I did something under there as I am a man of little patience at times.

 

[charleyf]

My recollection is that if you take the clamp totally loose it makes it harder to break it loose. I put a sacrificial nut on the end of the shaft and worked my hammer on it.
Charley

 

[tkamd73]

It takes two, must come up equal on both sides, if only one side moves, the other isn't. Just did it last month, followed the shop manual sequence. Windshield removed from the frame first made it easier. Tim

 

[Popeye]

I did like glemon and Charley: lots of penetrating oil every day for a few days, then put a sacrificial nut on the bottom and whack away. I don't recall if there is anything "fragile" to be worried about? I made sure that the bottom of the frame was completely free, i.e. the only restriction was the hold-down bolt. One side came out easy-peasy, the other side was a bear.

 

[Tybalt]

I had similar troubles with mine and did my best to patient with lots of Kroil over about a week, still no go. At that point I went the Geo Hahn route both spreading the clamp open a bit and unbolting it from the body work so I could give it a bit of a twist to try and break things free. I then reattached the brackets to the body work, put the sacrificial nut on there and worked at it some more. It finally came out, but only after the introduction of several new (or at least new to me) profanity laced word combinations.

Once it came out, everything got a nice clean up to remove corrosion, fresh paint and everything slathered with anti-seize on installation. If I ever have to yank that thing off again, it had better be easier or else I'll be adding lots of stuff to the profane pantheon.

 

[JWDH]

I am into the second week of penetrating oil and pulling. It isn't moving much. I am going to try to move the bracket. Should I have them connected to the body?

 

[Tybalt]

I am into the second week of penetrating oil and pulling. It isn't moving much. I am going to try to move the bracket. Should I have them connected to the body?

If you plan on spreading the clamp brackets open and giving them a twist they will need to be disconnected from the body work. At that point it may be possible to remove them from the mounting post on the windscreen frame. If you can get both of them off, then pulling the windscreen frame out is no problem as long as the pull is either one person from the center (since the interior was out, I stood on the floor pans, one foot on either side of the transmission opening and pulled it out.

Something I should have mentioned before, there is one fastener on each side that has poor access and limited arc range to turn a wrench. This was where a ratcheting box end wrench was worth its weight in gold just for those two fasteners.

 

[Madflyer]

I live in Nevada so when I pulled mine no problem no rust still painted sorry you have it so hard but I guess Cal. coast added to problem .Have you tried heat lamp or heat gun that used to remove paint. Madflyer