• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Windscreen Question

Share this page

PatGalvin

PatGalvin

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Hi All

So, took apart the windscreen this weekend and removed the glass. Polishing up the chrome now, and getting ready for new glass install. The "L" brackets screws were in very tight and corroded. I had to heat them up with the torch to get them loose. I also thought I was supposed to remove the smaller screws along the vertical sides of the windscreen. They were also in tight, so I heated those up too. But when they came out, it appeared they were set in lead solder and not screwed in at all. Is anyone familiar with this "feature" and is it problematic for me to just leave those very small screws out, as I reassemble? The small screws appear to go into these little boxes that are within the inner slot on the vertical sides of the windscreen frame.

Thanks

pat







 
Those hold the nut plates in place that the side stanchions bolt to. So...yes, you will need them.

I had to drill mine out, since they were rusted in as yours were. I then re-tapped the nut plates and used new screws.

There should be no solder. A PO may have stripped the nut plate threads and used solder to hold the plates in. If that is the case, then I guess the screws would be redundant.
 
Hi John

So if my nut plates are firmly affixed to the frame, then I can leave well enough alone and just focus on ensuring the threads are competent to receive the side stanchion screws (two on each side that ride into the nut plates? Is that correct? Thanks for responding.

Pat
 
Yep, Pat, that is correct. Just make sure they are secure. The stanchions cover where the screws holding the nut plates go...so you'll never know the difference when it's all together.
 
Be careful, the original threads are BA (British Association), not Yankee. They will be either 2BA or 4BA. 2BA measure almost exactly 10-32. Also, BA thread angles are different. As a matter of fact, many threads smaller then 1/4" on the TR3 are BA threads. See link below. I bought a couple of 2BA and 4BA taps from them.

https://www.britishfasteners.com/threads/index.html

 
Hi Art

Just so I'm clear, the small screws that affix the frame to the "L" bracket (four screws on each side) are 4BA (they are No. 4, I'm sure of that) and not No. 4-40?
So, if I want to replace screws and clean up the "L" brackets' threads, I purchase the 4BA by 1/4 inch screws from British Fasteners along with the 4BA tapered tap?

I have standard tap & die set with a thread pitch gauge, but on a 1/4 inch screw, it will be very difficult for me to assess BA versus NF. So - I appreciate the help.

Pat
 
Back
Top