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Will this door corner somehow adjust in?

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KLUTZ

KLUTZ

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I got my driver door finished by welding in a couple patches and touching up with filler where needed. I have the etch primer and the filler primer on and put the door on to get an idea of how it fits.
It fit fine I though, earlier, but now I have a 1/4 inch overhang of the rocker, at the front of the door from it being flush at the rear of the door. This door fit nice and flush with the old rocker and I know I put this new one on exactly where I cut the old one off since I marked everything.
So, could the rocker panel be narrower toward the front via a manufacturing fault and is there any way to adjust the lower hinge to draw in the bottom front the 1/4"

Paul

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That actually looks like you could persuade it a bit with a little bending.
 
Looking at the photo directly above this post (side view), it appears the back of the door is a little high & the trim line appears to run down towards the front.

Sometimes, if you pull the rocker too "taut", the curve flattens out & the front edge lifts just a tad - check to see if the curvature of that rocker is the same as the old one on the other side.

Just a couple of thoughts.
 
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check to see if the curvature of that rocker is the same as the old one on the other side.


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The other side has a new rocker on it too Tony. That side I have the new skin to put on, but it fit perfectly when I test fit it before I cut the skin off. Thing is, I was sure this one did too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Paul - I'm just guessing here....maybe make a template of the other side's curvature & fit against this side...

is the door a little lower in the rear at the trim line or is that optical?
 
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is the door a little lower in the rear at the trim line or is that optical?

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the bottom of the door follows the line of the rocker perfectly and is flush for about the back half of the door, then it starts to move out.
 
The door is adjustable with the hinges, hinge to post for in and out and hinge to door for forward and backward. It sometimes takes a lot of messing with both to get it just right.
 
Jack has it. The hinge (via 4 screws) on the a-post are adjustable. You'll need to fiddle with it, but it will pull in. You'll need to adjust the back via the striker plate (on the door itself).

Adjust the top hinge OUT 1/8in and the bottom IN by about the same amount and it should be flush.
 
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That actually looks like you could persuade it a bit with a little bending.

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif

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I agree that adjustment is the best method and should be pursued to the furthest extent possible.

I'm not sure if this would work in your case, but I know a chap with a TC that used a turnbuckle in the inside of his door with cable attached to the diagonals. By turning it, he pulled the corner of door in.

I know a TC door is a far cry from a B door, but he happens to have one of the finest door fits on any TC I have ever seen. Just an idea if you get stuck...but adjust first!
 
You have to loosen the really big nuts at the front of the A post as well as the screws on the hinges or you won't adjust anything.

Adrian
 
On closer inspection of your photo....It looks like a wicked warp along the bottom of the door. In the pic it looks like the front and the back are "out" from the rocker. A straight edge should tell the story.

Adrian
 
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