will not start

[Deleted member 8987]

Yes I did try to jump start it and there was no difference. Sometimes there is the rat-a-tat sound, sometimes no sound at all.

You may not be aware of this Tom, but you can reach behind the solenoid and depress the button to activate the starter.

"In doing so, I learn that the solenoid button does not give the same effect as turning the key - no sounds at all."

 

[TomFromStLouis]

Since the connections all look normal and okay, I thought I would leap into action and remove the solenoid, take it to the local auto store for testing and probably end up replacing it. Pretty good plan, except...

Except I cannot remove the solenoid. Turning the upper attachment bolt does not loosen it. I suspect there is a nut on the other side of the sheet metal turning along with me. How do I reach that other side? Can one person really reach the bolt and the nut at the same time? How? And while we are at it, how do I even get a wrench or socket on that lower attachment bolt?

 

[TomFromStLouis]

Thanks for chiming in John. While I have your attention, I think you owe it to the forum to let them know that your avatar looks much younger than you are. Just as handsome though.

;-)

 

[57_BN4]

Hi Tom,

before taking too much apart you can do a few simple tests to pinpoint the problem first.

The most likely culprit if your battery and connections are all good -including the ground strap connections- is the cutoff switch in the trunk. Try connecting a booster cable between the ground battery terminal (normally the rearmost one) and a clean ground on the chassis somewhere, this will bypass the cutoff switch. I'm assuming your car has a functioning switch.

You can isolate the problem a fair bit by turning on the headlights and trying to start.If putting the headlights on means the solenoid no longer clatters then you have a bad connection somewhere. If the headlights stay much the same brightness or dim just a little then you might need to tighten the solenoid mounting screws as it earths through them. If you press the solenoid button with the headlights on and they go very dim or completely off then you almost certainly have a bad connection in the circuit.

A machine-gunning solenoid is unlikely to be caused by a bad solenoid. The sequence is: solenoid pulls in, large current tries to flow to starter, voltage drops below the solenoid operating level, solenoid releases, voltage rises again... This is almost always caused by a high resistance connection in the starter circuit but also could be caused by loose solenoid to body bolts, an internally shorted starter or a battery that isn't performing correctly.

Andy.

 

[TomFromStLouis]

I realize this is an ancient thread, but for the record the problem was two pronged: 1 - a burned out Pertronix electronic ignition, and 2 - a drained battery (despite being less than one year old). I appreciate all the effort made in making responses and knew I owed you some closure. Sorry it took so long to give it to you.

 

[healeyblue]

From what I have heard the electronic ignitions do not play well with low voltage.

 

[DerekJ]

The burned out ignition wasn't one of the problems. I'm afraid you burnt it out when you left the ignition on.

 

[HEALEYJAG]

Ah ha...so when it was sugested by TOC to jump it (my car)...and I suggested the same....it should have worked in this case as long as the jumper cables were left on long enough to get enough voltage to start the car....so improper jumping technique...Pete

 

[Editor_Reid]

Just can't help but mention that in proper automotive English, the problem here is not "will not start," it is "Failure to proceed."