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When a Starter is not.

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Crisis

Jedi Hopeful
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Been having trouble starting my 73 TR6. Sometimes I hop in, turn the key, and the car fires immediately. Sometimes I hop in, turn the key and nothing happens-not even a click. I found some exposed wires (w/r, w/y)going to the starter and repaired thinking that would surely have been the problem. Not so. I'm not sure if my 'jiggling' of the wires fixes the problem on occasion, or, the starter itself is the problem.
My question is this; when a starter goes can it be intermittent like this? Or, does it go and never work again? Or, is it likely just my wiring? Thanks.
 
hello Crisis,

are you certain about which of the two white wires goes where, I think that they should have different size terminals so as there should be no mistake. The white\red is from the ignition switch to activate the solenoid when you go to 'start' with the key and the white\yellow goes to the coil and is only energised when the solenoid pulls in (Although it is 'back fed' from the coil with the ignition on and should read about 8 - 9volts.)

It could be that the motor commutator\brushes are getting marginal and depending where the motor stops as to whether the brushes make contact. What you need to determine is if the solenoid is working or not, which may need the help of an assistant for you to hear if it is clicking in? It is also possible that the solenoid main contacts are burnt.

Alec
 
Crisis said:
My question is this; when a starter goes can it be intermittent like this?
Click to expand...
The lack of click would seem to indicate the problem is outside the starter motor itself; although the solenoid mounted to the starter motor might be the problem.
Crisis said:
Or, is it likely just my wiring?
Click to expand...
Could also be wiring, or even the contacts inside the ignition switch itself.
One way to attack the problem is to semi-permanently connect a test lamp between the white/red at the solenoid, and ground; then bring the light out where you can see it while you crank the engine. I have a piece of lamp cord with alligator clips on one end and 1/4" disconnects on the other, just for things like this. If the light lights, but the solenoid doesn't click, the solenoid is the problem. If the light doesn't light, then the problem is farther up the line.
 
Crisis said:
I found some exposed wires (w/r, w/y)going to the starter and repaired thinking that would surely have been the problem.
Click to expand...
Did you make sure the terminal on the WR wire (which the only one that's important) had a good, firm grasp of the tab on the solenoid ? If it's loose enough to wiggle, it can cause an intermittant connection.
 
Excellent suggestion from Randall regarding the test light with long leads. Particularly helpful if you don't have an assistant handy.

Assuming you get the power to the solenoid sorted out and and it is getting power. The starter motor can get very dirty inside because of its location. A dirty commutator can make the starter act weak as if the battery charge is low. Removing it and a check of the brushes and a clean up would be my suggestion of the next step to take.
 
It sounds like either the solenoid or weak brush springs. Even when new these cars had the brush spring problem. They would get hot and no longer have enough to keep the brushes in good contact. The symptoms you describe is how they would act. In the 60's I used to keep a set on hand and got so I could pull the starter, clean the commutator, and lube the bushings. Then replace the springs and be on my way in very little time.
 
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