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Wheels binding at lock

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It pains me to type this, but I've just put a lovely gouge in the back of my new rims (16x7 Panasports w/205/65s on). It looks like when you reverse and put some lock on, the upper A-arm can (and does) hit the edge of the rim, peeling off strips of aluminium in a neat, but most depressing manner.

Question - has anyone else experienced this? I thought the 16's were ok for clearance, but based on a sample size of 1, it seems not.

If so what did you do to fix it? I'm thinking shortening the bolt on the a arm a little might help - at least the edge of the nut won't be quite as sharp...

Spacers aren't an option - the 205s are as wide as I'd want to go, and it's already been lowered.

All help much appreciated.
Alan
 
Rack limiters?
 
Hey Alan,
This is not common on 16" wheels but it's the same problem I had with my 15" Pan's. Mine had also happened in reverse under full lock.The rub is probably on the upper control arm at the extention of the ball joint. The control arm can be tailored at that point with a grinder. There's plenty of material to remove safley. You may also have interfierance with the outer most nut , which you can reverse. Also check the clearance at the sway bar lower link. This sometimes knocks the clip-on wheek weights off.

Are your whhels "0" offset? Definitly stay away from spacers.
 
Thanks Mitch. The wheels are the ones Moss sell for TR6s, so the offset had better be ok. Given their record with exhausts though I'm not so sure anymore (another story).

The only problem I have is with the outer upper A arm bolt (one of the two fixing the balljoint in place) grinding - I saw it take off a curl of wheel material last night and it was quite distressing - I have a non-stock front swaybar and that all seems fine, just this pesky bolt.

I was reluctant to just reverse it without seeking advice because I was worried I'd move the problem to rubbing on full lock going forward, which would be a real pita. I guess I'll suck it and see this weekend.
 
Hi Alan,

It is possible to install larger steering stops. But, these will reduce your turing radius slightly. Note that the originals are eccentrics, too, and can be adjusted a bit. It is fairly simple to make custom steering stops: use some aluminum or mild steel round bar in the new diameter you want, cut approx. 1/2" tall piece and drill a 5/16" hole off center. Might need a locking washer too, since the original stops have a spiral grove in either side to help keep prevent loosening.

After installing adjustable upper fulcrums (RevingtonTR) I found the 15x5.5 wheels on my TR4 running awfully close to the upper a-arm ends and modified the ends for additional clearance. In this case, just the upper flange end of the a-arm needed work, but it might be different on TR3 and with larger diameter wheels. All I did was grind a radius on the flange of the a-arm.

I combined this with slightly larger steering stops. There still isn't alot of clearance, but it looks like enough to keep me out of trouble.

I also used short height Nylock nuts and shortened the bolts until only a single thread showed. There is less clearance at the rear, so putting the outboard bolt head there without a washer under it helps add clearance, with the nut toward the front. I was able to use a washer under the nut. (I prefer to use good fitting washers under both sides of all nuts and bolts, whenever possible, to distribute load.)

Revington TR does recommend 6mm spacers to resolve clearance issues, too. But, I prefer not to use them, like you.

I suggest you touch up the scrape on the wheel. Bare aluminum will likely get corroded pretty quickly.

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
I changed the outer bolts around. Now it's fine except at absolute maximum lock - when I'm pulling on the wheel for that last 1/4" of turn, and only in reverse. I can live with that.

On a related note, the suspension changes I made along with the new wheels and tires have transformed the car. The steering is light, positive and the car runs true at high speeds (it floated like crazy above 70 before). I even managed a small amount of oversteer going round a bend (I didn't believe it either, which is why I almost didn't catch it).

To anyone contemplating changing out your suspension, swaybars, springs, shocks or any combination thereof I'd say do it if your suspension is even slightly suspect. It's not inexpensive and a real pita to work on, but the end results are worth it imo. ymmv.

The real bonus is now I can stop bitching and enjoy it for a week or so until the diff gets here. Maybe I'll go to the TVR show on Sunday now...
 
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