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Wheel bearing cross references?

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Luke_Healey

Luke_Healey

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Do any of you happen to have antiquated databases of information like wheel bearing cross references?

I happen to own a lot of new old stock New Dimension wheel bearings and am curious if I happen to own inners/outers for my Sprite.

I'm looking for New Dimension part numbers, and it's probably a long shot.

Are there any cheaper sources for wheel bearings than VB or Moss? Advance Auto is also about 60 bucks per wheel for these.

And finally, is it possible to use roller bearings in my 66 Sprite? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to doing so?
 
The front ball bearings are 7205 inner and 7303 outer. A 7205 is 25mm ID, 52mm OD and 15mm wide. A 7303 is 17mm ID, 47mm OD and 14mm wide. The bearing numbers come from the Timken site https://timken.com/industries/automotive/autoaftermarket/timkencatalog/PartCatalog.aspx and the dimensions come from Bearing Manual Volume 1 No. 103 pages 214 and 216. If you give me a manufacturer I may have their part number. As far as roller bearings go there is a tapered roller bearing conversion that you can do. It has been discussed in this thread https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/213489/page/0/fpart/1.
 
Are Timken bearings something you have to work with a regional distributor to get?

I'm only wanting to buy these once, since I think they're overpriced. I've paid much less for more robust wheel bearings in other vehicles. The Victoria British kit is 50 bucks a side and Moss sells their kit for 65 a side.

Are they sufficient? I'm going to be driving the car 'spiritedly' and want to button down the front suspension so I'm not jumping across a lane of traffic when my front wheel starts resonating like mad (like I currently am.)

I noticed a lot of online complaining about modern replacement bearings being of poor quality and lasting about 2000 miles before the races were ruined.

I'll try to hit the search feature like gangbusters and see what I can turn up.
 
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Registered: 05/30/07
Posts: 44
Loc: Ames, Iowa, USA

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"""" Are Timken bearings something you have to work with a regional distributor to get? """"""""""

Timken is a bearing manufacturer/repackager just like BCA/Federal Mogul or CR for example. The ball thrust bearings (o.e. type) 7205 and 7303 are industry standard numbers and might not be stocked by a bearing distributor as they are very slow movers. low volume = higher pricing. There is probably only a single manufacturer of those 2 numbers as there is no real volume. They then are sold to these other bearing manufacturers so they can fill in and round out their entire bearing line.

These bearings, if properly lubed should last a long time.....and are torqued highly and use a distance piece and shims. When properly shimmed and torqued the wheel assy exhibits a bit of play which is normal.

""""""""""and want to button down the front suspension so I'm not jumping across a lane of traffic when my front wheel starts resonating like mad (like I currently am.)""""""

Sounds like you have other issues.......alignment, shocks, tire pressure and balance etc.

There is an alternative.....tapered roller bearings. The numbers here are 30205 , (which is the inner cup/cone assy) which have 07097/07024 cup/cone, and 30303 (outer cup/cone assy) which have 05066/05185 c/c. BUT, there is an issue witht the inner inside (back ) radius..you MUST use the 30205X, which is the larger radius to clear the spindle to upright radius. With these you do not use the distance piece as used with the ball bearings, and you need to get a thinner adjusting nut and outer thrust washer as the bearing stack is different than when using the balls. These are not cheap either , as they also are low volume numbers.


"""""""I noticed a lot of online complaining about modern replacement bearings being of poor quality and lasting about 2000 miles before the races were ruined. """""

The problems center around cheap and substandard tapered roller bearings coming out of mostly China. These are not made to ISO standards and SOME OF THEM are substandard. Not all..just some, and usually the SETxxx front wheel bearings in the very popular numbers. IF a bearing set is too cheap, it MIGHT not be TOO GOOD. Look for the country of origin on the bearing.......anything other than China should be ok. BUT, aome from China are ok. You just have to throw a wide net over the China marque.

With any bearing it is important to use a good wheel bearing grease. There again the cheap price might be the wrong pick. Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella is what to look for.
 
Good info! Thanks, by the way.

I jacked the car up last night and wiggled around the wheel. There are metal shavings in the bearing grease and the only play is in the bearings. The tie rod end and steering rack are tight.

I'm used to vehicles where you finger tighten the castle nut on the spindle, so I will check to make sure the previous owner didn't go that route.

I'll probably spring for the Victoria British ball bearings and sundries I need for this car and have my parts by Monday noon.

Thanks again.
 
""""""I'm used to vehicles where you finger tighten the castle nut on the spindle""""""

This is on tapered roller bearings or older non-thrust ball bearings (GM cars for example).

If you have visible shavings you shud remove wheels, disassemble hubs. The rear ball bearing usually comes apart when you remove the hub, because of corrosion age bearing i.d. to spindle o.d. Inspect bearings which are proll bad if shavings. Ispect distande piece ends and shims also. ALSO make sure bearings are assembled in the hub properly..there is a inside and outside on each bearing.

Torque on spindle nut I think is 45 ft/lbs.

you can add or subtract shims to get the necessary SLIGHT clearance...(a bit) ..rotate hub before adding the caliper..hub shud revolve smoothly.

Good luck.
 
Noted. I have a really old Haynes manual that has the procecure and mentions the fact the thrust sides face the 'spacer' on the spindle.

Moss Motors' catalog has a photo of that as well, I noticed.

Haynes mentions needing a puller to get the hub off, but I wasn't sure that was necessary?

I'll check the torque and also pull the bearings out and look for the culprit.
 
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