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What Weber For Nigel?

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QuickSilver

QuickSilver

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I will be offering the current Weber and intake setup on Nigel for sale shortly.

Until then I need to buy a new replacement. Or do I?

Are there easy DIY injection alternatives, other makes as alternatives? If not what type of Weber do I buy? 32/36 or 34/34 or gasp side draft?

Oh the SU were long gone before I became Nigels conservator.
 
I'd be for hunting an SU setup. Less messin' and better overall performance than the DGV, a whole lot less dollars than a DCOE rig.
 
I see, but if you were one of those stubborn foreigners that favors a Weber, which one would you be going for?

I like SU and I had an HIF6 on my Moke but I think it would be difficult to sort out a whole new kit and tune it on the B.
 
An older HS4 twin setup would be bolt-on and drive! The Weber manifolds for the downdraught versions are, in a word, s***e. That whole setup is a compromise IMO and not worth the time/money/effort to make it work. If you just can't live without a Weber then the DCOE is the only real choice.
 
QuickSilver said:
I see, but if you were one of those stubborn foreigners that favors a Weber, which one would you be going for?

I like SU and I had an HIF6 on my Moke but I think it would be difficult to sort out a whole new kit and tune it on the B.
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I, like Doc, would go for a SU setup. It's a proven setup and will get the most performance out of your stock engine. I've done the 32/36 Weber thing on a 79 and didn't like it, it had a bad hesitation problem that I could never get out, so I took it off and went with a duel SU set up. The 32/36 Weber I have, well I keep it in sight to remind me that I can't holler at other people for waisting 500+ bucks.
But, then again, a Weber DCOE is a fantastic carb and proves that anything is possible, it just depends on how much money you want to spend and how correct the setup is for your engine. You don't just slap a DCOE on a stock engine and expect miracle's. Actually in stock configuration, it probably would run terrible.
 
They can be tweaked to work well, Paul. But it takes time and lots of jets. :wink:
 
DrEntropy said:
They can be tweaked to work well, Paul. But it takes time and lots of jets. :wink:
Click to expand...

You mean the DCOE Doc?
 
Yup. I don't consider the downdraught ones to be Webers. They're Holleys. :devilgrin:
 
I have run a 40 DCOE on my B for 25+ years with out any problems. Most retailer's will try to sell you a 45 DCOE. Do not bite, unless your motor has been highly tuned. Nothing better than a 40 making the majic noise when you hit the sweet spot...that is the Carb, I mean! Once properly jetted, you should never need to adjust under normal road use.
Cheer,
D.
 
Yup! Here as well. The 40 on Herself's current B has been on three others over the last 35 years. Sometimes on a tweaked engine, sometimes on a stock one. Current incarnation is a Crane cammed, well balanced road engine.

...if I could figger out how to do it, there'd be a set of 40's on th' Benz! :jester:

"The BARK of th' Webers" is music.
 
I have a low miler Weber downdraft (1500 miles)that I just removed from a 73 MGB. It ran OK but when I shut the car down it appeared to boil the fuel in the float bowl. The only way I knew what was happening was on hot startup the car acted a little flooded. There is a set of SU carbs on the car now. That removed Weber setup is $150 plus a few bucks to ship it if you really want to go that route. Maybe something else made the carb act that way???? Do not know or care anymore! Car runs much better with the SU carbs. Bob
 
I agree with all of you. Initially I was a'scared of two carbs. Now that I have worked on several for the '67 and '74 and about am to tackle my TD's (eek) there is really not much to worry about. Similar to you guys I have 3 different Weber set ups that will be up for sale as soon as I get my but in gear and start cleaning up around here.
 
Bob, That's what I was referring to above with regard to the intake designs... Fuel will stay in the manifold and when hot, pool right under the carb. As soon as you crank it to restart, the "pool" dumps straight into the cylinders. Raw gas.

SU's just WORK. Even HALF-right it'll run. :wink:
 
+1! You need a fourty fitted to the old style long branch Cannon intake. I do agree with the SU's work, but I am no fond of petrol dripping on a hot exhaust system if things go wrong. Wish that I could post pictures. I have a very nice piccy of a Huffaker B motor fitted with twin 40's on a ali cross-flow head, stuffed into a Series 1 Vixen that I did a few years ago.
Cheers,
D.
 
email me that photo, I'll reduce it and post it here!

Meanwhile, for humor's sake....

"I dunno WHY it won't START!!!" :jester:
 

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And for some eye-candy, the ONLY real downdraught Webers:
 

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A "before" of Her engine bay:
 

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And the "after":
 

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This intake was ho-made, fabb'd up back inna mid '70's using BMC's "Special Tuning Manual" as the source for the thing. Works a treat, too. :wink:
 
Doc's setup sounds as good as it looks, too.

That being said, I'd go for HIFs. I like mine, they've never let me down ( although I let down the rear carb by not diligently adjusting the float level once) and they keep you fit since even a sticking float involves removing the little critters for repair. Wrists of steel!
 
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