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what to look for when buying a '79 series II XJ6

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eschneider

eschneider

Jedi Warrior
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I'm considering a Jag, but know nothing about them. one of those "opportunities" that came out of the blue.

It needs cosmetic work - headliner, seat covers, dent in drivers side door. fuel injected, clean engine bay. Very little rust. Stumbles when cold, until fully warm. Some kind of problem with the hood latch not allowing the hood to click shut.

I've only had a cursory look. What do I need to be wary of? What's expensive? (I have my own repair shop, but know nothing about Jaguars) I know the rear inboard brakes are supposed to be time-consuming. Overall, it seems most parts are cheaper than a modern car.

I'm not generally a luxury car guy, but I like the lines of the series II.

Thanks,
Eric
 
Get it on a lift and check the suspension bushes. Check spring pans in front for rust ( they can rust out in the middle ) and look for broken springs. Check engine thoroughly as it isn't a hard job to fix, but can get $$. Tranny is a Borg unit not hard to rebuild. IRS rear is cumbersome, but check bearings for sound and movement.

Check radiator and condensor, leaves and junk can accumulate between them. Under the radiator check support fo rust, hard to find sometimes.

Inside check all switches and electrics. Check for rust pimples around windshield and rear glass. A hard to patch repair area. Check all doors for operation of windows, motors can be crossed with Pontiac.

If the car is in pretty good shape and you are a mechanic, emissions are GM and so is A/C compressor, same with altenator. Should not be a problem to you.

My 79 Series 2 did well for the 4 years I had it and is still running today. The cars are nice, just stay on top of maintenance.

Check websites for parts sources, lots on the market and in Hemmings Mag.
 
Just a few quick thoughts on the SII's (XJ's through 1987 as well):

Check the fuel filler necks for rust, water in the tank possibly..

Lift the rear seat cushion if possible and check the rear suspension mounting bolts from above (rust around these is trouble).

If possible, check under the carpets for serious floor pan rust issues, many have pooling of AC condensation in the front pans.

I thought for a while that I had a hood latch issue when in fact it was the bracket mounts rusting away (from inside the hood) and causing some shift which seems at first to be only alignment/ latching in nature. There is a center beam to check as well at the other end of the hinges which is prone to rust and cause the same symptoms. This is all minor if you can weld and do any body repair, but worth a look I think. Removing the high beam buckets should allow you to see the inside area (back of the hinge mounts inside the hood) and inspect for potential rust-through.

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
I addition, check the integrity of the metal fuel pipes running from the base of the fuel tanks to the fuel pumps. Where they are exposed they tend to rust, and will leak. Ask me how I know this! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
in other words check everything! over and under!

not to scare you because these cars are very solid even when rust is present, some are in better shape than others. The most expensive repair will be an engine rebuild but if the engine is running, the stumbling is probably the Auxiliary Air Valve located at the Intake side. Revs up and down by itself? definitely the AAV. remove it and clean it with carb cleaner, sometimes that fixes it, but removal is very difficult, bolts can only be reached from under engine, (well, at least in the Series III), very dangerous, since these cars are so heavy. Make sure you have more than needed support holding the weight when working under these cars.

Otherwise, count your blessings: No McPherson Struts, (I hate McPherson Struts!), No Front wheel Drive, (I hate FWD!). A/C compressors are the GM A6, they last forever.
Power Steering and Air Pump is GM too. Reconditioned Racks are available, you can get most service parts at any autoparts. Dot COMMMMMM.

I'm on my 17th year of owning a 1984 XJ-6, I would not change it for any modern car, (unless you throw the new Maserati at me), the car has been reliable all these years, always there when I want to use it. Parts are always available and not expensive, just shop till you drop.

Are you talking about the Old English White example in PA??

Ex
 
Re: what to look for when buying a '79 series II X

Exotexs said:
Are you talking about the Old English White example in PA??
Click to expand...

Not sure what you mean by "old english white example"

The car is a silver and just kind of appeared at a neighboring shop. For $500, not much to lose if there really isn't any rust and it has good compression and oil pressure. I'll be sure to check out all the points suggested here and report back!

Thanks!
 
Re: what to look for when buying a '79 series II X

For $500 I'd grab it if only for parts! You could drive it a few months & when it breaks leave it on the side of the road!
 
Re: what to look for when buying a '79 series II X

Steve said:
I addition, check the integrity of the metal fuel pipes running from the base of the fuel tanks to the fuel pumps. Where they are exposed they tend to rust, and will leak. Ask me how I know this! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
Click to expand...

OK, how do you know this? Full story required.....
 
Re: what to look for when buying a '79 series II X

Well, I had noticed a puddle of gas under the right hand fuel tank, and fearing the worst, I got underneath the car expecting to see a leaky fuel tank. I had imagaes of having to replace the durn thing.

Thankfully it was only the feed pipe that had corroded through, but I was surprised, expecting them to be made of something a little more rust-proof, especially as they were exposed to all the crud coming off the rear wheels.

I replaced them on both sides, to be safe.
 
Re: what to look for when buying a '79 series II X

OH, C'MON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You start off with "check the fuel lines" and end with that snoozer of a story?

You could have at least included the word "flames", added at least one of the spice girls, and extra credit for a british country/western singer midget named Hank with a fire extinguisher in his MG......

Sheesh.
 
Re: what to look for when buying a '79 series II X

eschneider said:
OH, C'MON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You start off with "check the fuel lines" and end with that snoozer of a story?

You could have at least included the word "flames", added at least one of the spice girls, and extra credit for a british country/western singer midget named Hank with a fire extinguisher in his MG......

Sheesh.
Click to expand...
(No Spice Girls, I am tall and don't like country/western at all, but try this one....)
I'll tell you the entire story of my '75 XJ6C's first trip to the body shop in detail sometime.. The basics are that the car erupted into flames, the hood wouldn't open quickly and two large fountain drinks hurled at the rear carb saved the day. Which reminds me, check for stuck valves and leaking carbs, the air filter isn't very flame-resistant I learned. Oh, and also keep a fire extinguisher in the car!
 
Hi There Exotexs;

Where in PA is the Olde English White One? Where can I view the listing or whatever?

Thanx, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
actually I have to disagree on the replacement of the fuel tanks in the Series 1 through Series 3 XJ models, (whether 6 or 12 cylinder engines, the tanks don't care).

I replaced one of my tanks in my 1984 and it was actually a piece of cake. Removal is very obvious and simple even to the unlearned at the time, (like me), and the only mistake I thought I made was not having the upper collar Seal/gasket in advance, (a fiber-paper gasket between the top collar of the tank and the body), only to realize after bitching at the business that sold me the tank, that it was included in the replacement tank, it already came glued in place! What an embarrasment! Apologies were not enough!

Also I had the benefit of the Service Manual which guided me step by step, so that made it even easier, but even without the Manual, it's doable.

As the years go by with my 1984, (17 so far) I find these cars were designed to be messed with by the owners, they are simple to repair, with the exception of the engine which weighs ten tons.

Russ and Eric in PA: I came across that car by accident, I'm not interested myself but I know it is in Pennsylvania. Where? dunno. But I just found out it's still available. I will check with the lady and send you her e-mail by PM.

Ex
 
here's the Old English White Series 2 XJ, looks good and straight to me, I don't know if it's a 6 or 12, or the year, it looks like a 1977, or if it's really the awful yellow color. the picture is terrible, the car is sitting in the garage since the owner's recent passing. you'll have to buy from the widow. I understand there is a parts car too, or a cache of parts. I sent you their e-mail by PM.
Good luck!
 

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Hi There Exotexs;

Got it; "Thanx":

I`ll let you know what I find out:

Regards, Russ /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Exotexs,

It is Olde English White. One in the yellow just sold on Ebay and no lighting or bad photography could disguise that color! It looks like a stretch limo version of my car.... Looks very original and solid as well. Good find!
 
Hi There Brian;

Does this mean that you physically saw the Old English White one in PA?

Russ
 
Hi Russ,

No, I haven't seen the car in PA, I just meant that in low-light settings my Olde English White paint has that yellow-ish hue. It catches me off guard at times, in the sunlight my car is fairly bright white. It must be the tint in the paint mixture. I think Pale Primrose is what Exotexs was referring to, the yellow he mentioned. Unless that is just a very pale picture, I would say it is Olde English White for sure.
 
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