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What to do to front suspension parts?

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VelodromeRacer

VelodromeRacer

Jedi Trainee
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Hey all,
I am replacing my front wheel bearings on my 1966 BJ8 to rid some shake. While I have it apart, Is it that much harder to replace the kingpin bushings? Should I paint/powder coat anything such as the lower control arms?? What about the thin dustshield?
Thanks
 
HI VRR,First replacing the wheel bearings does not involve any of the control arms. Yes replacing the king pin bushings is a lot more work the entire front end must be disasembled and the bushings reamed using a special reamer or sent out to a machine shop.Paint or Powdercoat is the individuals choice.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
Yes - It is a lot harder. Kingpins, tie rod ends, & front shocks must all be tight & straight to prevent shake. Wheels/tires & sometimes brake drums must all be balanced. You can try it one part at a time & see if the result is acceptable. Probably the balancing will do more to reduce shake than replacing suspension parts.
D
 
Thanks. I figure I might finish the wheel bearings and clean everything up, then get the wheels balanced on the car. I hope that removes what play I am feeling.

I was afraid that the kingpin work might get over what I am comfortable with doing.

What color are our suspension parts, black I assume?
 
An experienced mechanic can tell you if any of the other parts need replacing, & which ones need it. Just be sure to find someone who does not stand to gain by doing the work or selling the parts. Most of the parts are black.
D
 
VR,
I approached mine as one big project as complete as possible all at one time. When I went after the front end I replaced, renewed or rebuilt everything. Once you commit it is a winter project of a month or so up on jack stands. I did the following.
Magnafluxed spindles.
Replaced kingpins, splines, wheels, bearings, tie rod ends, shocks, shock tower plates, springs, stering box, idler box rebuild, trunnions, trafficator rebuild, frond frame sway bar caps, sway bar upgrade, new busings, bearings, painted all parts black, brake lines (hard and soft).
All this really changed the personaility and roadworthyness of the car. I think it will outlast me now. I used the same approach on the rear suspension replacing bumpboxes rubber, springs etc. I did not rebuild the rear end since it is quiet, smooth and does not leak. I will however do so with a Lempert gear set upgrade next winter.
 
And I would like to add one more item to the list of things to consider when tracking down that elusive shimmy at speed: condition of the front and rear wire wheel hub extensions. A comparison of a new (right) and worn (left) rear hub extension (attached) shows evidence of wear at the lug nut recessess. Note how the lug nut sits lower in the oblong recess which allowed the hub,and consequently the wire wheel, to install slightly off-center. This would cause the car to shimmy at speed- not desireable. The solution was to replace the rear hub extensions and locking nuts and torque to 55ftlbs. When you've arrived at a point where balancing the driveshaft and brake drums are being considered, don't rule-out the hub extensions! Enjoy, GONZO
 

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That's almost disgraceful. Not only will they shimmy, thre is a near certain chance that a wheel will fall off. When you consider that the only thing between you & disaster is 5 little bolts, everything needs to be perfect. Don't re use the old self locking nuts if you can avoid it. Loctite is a good idea. If the studs are good, 55 ft/lb is about right. If they won't pull down this tight, there is something wrong. Lot of leverage on these parts as you drive. Additionally, less than perfect fitting will let the rear gear lube leak out & possibly oil down the brakes. I feel that only perfect parts & fitting will keep things permanently tight & keep you from eventual disaster. You make an excellent point.
D
 
Replacing the splines due to lug nut positioning wear is a new one for me!!! I replaced my rear splines due to wear on the splines themselves....great information. I have new front splines to install when I rebuild the front end -- is the same issue pertinent to them also?
 
I don't believe the front hubs have the same issues. The splined hub is supported by the spindle & bearings on it's inside. The rears have no spindle, just the five nuts to hold everything together.
D
 
I have looked it over and only notice very little movement in the kingpin...can one change or add to the shims that are at the top of the kingpin under the main nut? And who sells them? Moss only includes them in a kingpin kit.

Just asking, as I don't want to tear this all apart now in the middle of the season...
 
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