I went and looked a 1500 Spit engine, the engine # is FM 5973UE. I got the price down some so I bought it.
The reciept for the parts and machine shop`is written up for labor as, bored .020 over, honed, hot tanked, removed and replace cam bearings, install new exhaust seats for unleaded, grind valves, machine and install bronze guides, align rods, recondition small and large ends. balance eng and flywheel, crankshaft turned .010.
The Parts section was written up as,
Parts Kit #9450
17929-.020 pistons and rings
4B2406 rod bearings, 3M2407 main bearings,
T2407 cam bearings,
OP621 oil pump,
EG091 gaskets REPCO,
1362 General Chain set Timming comp.
3 exhaust valves 211-2237,
4 hard seats Ex 1840 Snyder
8 valve guides 1840 liners
211-6193 Repco rear seal,
211-2142 Front seal,
CK261 Repco Head set,
C1362 GCI and A60510 GCI.
TR-15RVI or RVT (cant read writing for sure) R-V cam D-9 grind.
This was completed in and paid for on 3-21-88.
Anyone recognize any of these part numbers?
How about the cam?
I have pulled the clutch off to fit it to my engine stand. All the parts were punch marked already to allow them to be realigned. I took off the valve cover and every thing looks like new or cleaned.
It came with a Weber DGAV33B1 32/36 carb and a Cannon Induction manifold (Compton CA) and a 4 into one header, (inexpensive one from it's looks) .
It also came with a 3 rail trans that is very clean and painted and all new gaskets showing.
Wonder what I got?
BPNW informed that a D-9 grind has the following spec's
MGB D-9 CAM SPEC’S
DURATION @.050 229 DEG
INTAKE OPENS AT 8 CLOSES AT 41
EXHAUST OPENS AT 41 CLOSES AT 8
CAM LIFT .295 LOBE CENTER 108 DEG
INTAKE VALVE LASH .018
EXHUAST VALVE LASH .018
How would I check the lift and duration? Use a dial indicator on the rocker and a timing wheel on the crankshaft?
I am concerned about how hot the cam might be for street use?
I plan to pull the oil pan and check things out. Thought it might be a good idea to check the torque on the fasteners. Should I loosen them then re-torque? Also thought I would pop one bearing cap off to see if there is assembly lube on them.
The engine has been dry stored with oil in the pan. The top end is pretty dry, but no rust of any kind.
What say ye?
Thanks
The reciept for the parts and machine shop`is written up for labor as, bored .020 over, honed, hot tanked, removed and replace cam bearings, install new exhaust seats for unleaded, grind valves, machine and install bronze guides, align rods, recondition small and large ends. balance eng and flywheel, crankshaft turned .010.
The Parts section was written up as,
Parts Kit #9450
17929-.020 pistons and rings
4B2406 rod bearings, 3M2407 main bearings,
T2407 cam bearings,
OP621 oil pump,
EG091 gaskets REPCO,
1362 General Chain set Timming comp.
3 exhaust valves 211-2237,
4 hard seats Ex 1840 Snyder
8 valve guides 1840 liners
211-6193 Repco rear seal,
211-2142 Front seal,
CK261 Repco Head set,
C1362 GCI and A60510 GCI.
TR-15RVI or RVT (cant read writing for sure) R-V cam D-9 grind.
This was completed in and paid for on 3-21-88.
Anyone recognize any of these part numbers?
How about the cam?
I have pulled the clutch off to fit it to my engine stand. All the parts were punch marked already to allow them to be realigned. I took off the valve cover and every thing looks like new or cleaned.
It came with a Weber DGAV33B1 32/36 carb and a Cannon Induction manifold (Compton CA) and a 4 into one header, (inexpensive one from it's looks) .
It also came with a 3 rail trans that is very clean and painted and all new gaskets showing.
Wonder what I got?
BPNW informed that a D-9 grind has the following spec's
MGB D-9 CAM SPEC’S
DURATION @.050 229 DEG
INTAKE OPENS AT 8 CLOSES AT 41
EXHAUST OPENS AT 41 CLOSES AT 8
CAM LIFT .295 LOBE CENTER 108 DEG
INTAKE VALVE LASH .018
EXHUAST VALVE LASH .018
How would I check the lift and duration? Use a dial indicator on the rocker and a timing wheel on the crankshaft?
I am concerned about how hot the cam might be for street use?
I plan to pull the oil pan and check things out. Thought it might be a good idea to check the torque on the fasteners. Should I loosen them then re-torque? Also thought I would pop one bearing cap off to see if there is assembly lube on them.
The engine has been dry stored with oil in the pan. The top end is pretty dry, but no rust of any kind.
What say ye?
Thanks
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smilie in place of the real @
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