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Tips
Tips

What a stud.

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C

Crisis

Jedi Hopeful
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Tips needed. I am in the process of removing my exhaust system in preparation for a new SS unit. I was having difficulty accessing one of the 4 flange stud nuts so I got out the recip saw and made room allowing me to get a clear shot with a socket and 1/2'' ratchet. I guess I would have been better using a small open wrench that wouldn't allow me to get too much torque because the stud easily broke off in the socket.
Now I've got 3 long in-tact studs and one broken off and with about 1/2'' showing. I thought I would ask the forums advice on removing this stud without mangling it before I tried. I don't really want to have to remove the entire manifold.
Any suggestions? Thank you.
 
when i did mine a couple of years ago, i soaked the nuts/studs in penetrating oil and they cam off quite easily. the nuts should also be brass which helps to prevent them from seizing, but i guess this is academic for you now. probably the easiest thing for you to do would be to remove the manifolds(both) and fix it that way perhaps using an "easy-out". it is not that big a job, and you can do a lot of cleaning with them out. just be sure to liberally soak all the nuts in penetrant.
hope this helps.
c74
 
Since some of it is still exposed, I'd take a first shot by soaking it in penetrating oil (PB Blaster is my favorite, Kroil is a close second. Liquid Wrench is a waste of time; WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil.) for at least several days. If you can get in there, set a big punch on the end and smack it with a BFH to help the oil penetrate.

Then try to turn it with your favorite flavor of "stud extractor". I like this flavor best
otc-6986_w.jpg

but this kind will probably work if there is room for it to swing.
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Then if the stud breaks again, I would suggest removing the manifold before trying to drill. Personally I wouldn't even bother trying an easy-out or similar under these circumstances ... odds are good that it will break as well leaving you with an extremely hard piece to drill through rather than just the relatively soft steel of the stud. Just grind the end square, put a center punch mark in the center, and start drilling.

Start with a drill maybe only 1/2 the size of the stud and then work up slowly. When you can see signs of the threads in the side of the hole, try to break out the remains of the stud using a dental pick or similar; or just run a tap through. Many times I've been able to save the original threads this way. If not, time for a Helicoil.

When you reassemble, I recommend the copper-based (and colored) anti-seize. It works amazingly well on this sort of stuff. Use new lockwashers every time; and new nuts if the old ones show any signs of corrosion.
 
This happened to me eons ago with a TR3A. Not having a clue as to what I might do otherwise, I removed the exhaust manifold and took it to a local mechanic. He put it in the big old bench vise and got out his Oxy-Acetylene torch. He heated the surrounding are for awhile...and then was able to turn out the broken stud easily. In retrospect, it was one of the smarter things I'd done in my life to that point. For a bit of time, the cost of a new manifold gasket and stud and a couple bucks to the mechanic, all was "correct" and "as-new"!
 
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