Hey Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
Well, she mostly finished, I've got to adjust the valves, pull it off the stand and put the rear cover and flywheel on it, and it ready go back home. I kinda told you all about this build, but in short, it was freshly rebuilt by another shop, and had only 10-15 psi of hot idle oil presure, my job was to fix the motor and get it right. Well it had waaaaaaay too much rod and main clearence on a polished standard crank, that was way under spec, and that was why it didn't have any oil pressure. So the engine basicly got blueprinted, I spec out my spec for a .010/.010 crank grind, sized the big end of the rods, and installed ARP rod bolts, the piston were still NOS standard on standerd bores with about .004" clearence, again too much. Normally I would just bore, but the bores looked good, and were straight and most of the wear seemed to be from the original standard piston skirts, so I got a new set of standard County pistons and and sure enough I was now at .002". I made rod and main clearence at .0015", where before it was .004" on the mains and .003" on the rods, it had new thurst bearings and the endplay was ded on, no issues there. The cam fit the block great, so no need for cam bearings, and it had a new BP270 cam and nitirited lifters, so that was retained, I did use a vernier cam gear to help me dial in the cam timing. I did a pretty good overall rebuild on the head, it already had new valves, springs and bronze guides already, I then installed hardened exhaust seat, did a multi angle vale job, and use the BPNW alloy retainers and made some shims from grade 8 .080" flat washer to get from 55 pounds of seat pressure to 70-72 pounds of seat pressure. I reshaft and kinda did a re-haul on the roacker arom assembly as well. I CCed the head and run the CR numbers, ended up decking the about .030" to get him up to a little over 9.0 to 1. on CR. Got all good parts, and gasket in it, tri metal bearings. Everything on it has been measured dictated and dead on everyhwhere, so no guess work. I have to admit it was the first TR6 I ever built, you guys have never called me, I fiquired I use this engine as gauge to see if Iwanted to build anymore, and the answer is, sure would, it would be nice to build a trick one with ported head and such, but this is a beginning, and I'd definately do it again, doing a straight 6 was kinda cool.
