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Well, the TR-2 is Home!

Mark_Gibson

Jedi Trainee
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I've just spent my 1st full day dismantling my new old TR-2. Does there really need to be that many bolts holding the front fenders on? Geesh! I've made good progress tho, have the entire interior out, doors removed and the windshield and trunk lid removed, plus all but 2 bolts on each of the passenger side fenders. The rockers need help, as well as both floors needing to be replaced. I'm going to do a frame on resto on the car. Hopefully with only 56 K the mechanicals will still be in OK shape. I'll change all the fluids this weekend and see if it will run. I'll post some pictures soon, tho it doesn't look much like a car anymore! I have one question..the dash needs to come out to be recovered. The TR-2 service manual I have doesn't show how it all comes apart. Any help?

Thanks...
 
Hey Mark -

It's been a while since I had mine out. The dash isn't too complicated. There are braces that run from the center of the dash to the firewall - the heater's attached to them (if you have one). Those come out. The center panel is held in place roughly at each corner; the bottom ones are easy to get to, but the top ones aren't. Once the center panel is out, you have more room to reach in for the mounting points of the rest of the dash.

Which manual do you have? I'll check mine to see how detailed it is and get back to you if it's different.

Mickey
 
[ QUOTE ]
...The center panel is held in place roughly at each corner; the bottom ones are easy to get to, but the top ones aren't...

[/ QUOTE ]

All you have to do is loosen the top nuts of the center panel, the top 'holes' are slotted so you pull forward on the bottom edge then down.

You will need to remove the temp gauge to get the center panel clear which entails undoing the fitting at the thermostat head and feeding the capillary tube thru the firewall and out thru the dash. Awkward, but you must keep that tube intact as it contains the 'magic fluid' that works the gauge.

Don't forget to put the oil pressure gauge back on its line after the dash is out if you plan to crank or start the engine.

Here's a photo showing where those center panel nuts are. This one has wing nuts -- a good idea but yours may be standard hex:

center-panel.JPG
 
Great photo, Thanks George! One other question, when I buy the interior kit, does it come with enough material to recover the dash? Just curious..thanks again....
 
[ QUOTE ]
Great photo, Thanks George! One other question, when I buy the interior kit, does it come with enough material to recover the dash? Just curious..thanks again....

[/ QUOTE ]

I got my kit from TRF, and it had all pieces necessary. I also bought some extra material "just in case." Good thing, as I've recovered some of my original work that didn't come out so well.

Mickey
 
Thanks Mickey. I got my interior for my TR-6 from TRF and was very impressed. I'm hoping I can cover all those aluminum capping strips without getting more spray adhesive on me then on the piece!
 
Yes, I've felt your pain. I just ordered a TRF tune up kit for the -2 and the plug wires in the box only have one end on them!! Nice, huh?
 
Thats cuz the distributor side of the wire on a 2-4a uses a set screw to secure the wires from inside the cap.
 
Yes, well don't I feel dumb! I guess I have alot to learn about the 2, I've been so involved with my 6 for so many years, just figured they would all be the same...silly me!
 
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