GT6 Welding Floor Pans - GT6

[svtmikey]

I am replacing the floor pans in my 69 GT6, (along with the inner rocker panels), which I had not planned for. What would be the best way to weld them. Should I spot weld them, or seam weld them all along the complete length of the joint. But not sure at the rockers. Perhaps a combination of both. I will butt weld the floor pan where it joins the tranmission tunnel.
Has anyone done this before? I'd like to keep it as "factory" as possible.
Frankly, they are so rusted now I can't tell how they were originally welded.
Thanks

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

I haven't worked on GT6, but can guess from illustrations I've seen that the floor pans and rockers are installed pretty much the same as other TRs I am familiar with.

The "correct" installation would be a "spot weld", which unless you have access to an actual spot welder is probably most easily done with a plug weld using either oxy/acetylene or MIG.

Some Triumphs have had been seam welded to strengthen and make the bodies more rigid. It's an old rase-preparation trick, but that's not how it was originally done on these cars.


A few suggestions, you might already know:

Thanks to its hardtop, the GT6 body is probably a lot more rigid than most Triumphs, but watch that nothing sags or shifts with the floors and rockers out of the car. Especially watch the A-post. On some models they will drop quite a bit without the support of the rockers and floors.

Pre-drill holes in the floor or rocker for the plug welds, fit the panel in place, use Cleco clamps or Vise Grips or even temporary pop rivets to hold things together and tack weld several places. Next be sure to check douible the fit of other body panels around the area, especially the doors. Then go around the panel you are installing and weld every fifth hole, checking often that everything is staying in alignment as you go. Then make another pass welding every fifth hole, etc., etc. The idea here is to not overheat one area or it might cause some warping. Heat spread and warping is a lot easier to control with a MIG than with oxy/acetylene. If you are working in a particularly tricky area and want to protect surrounding areas, you might want to get some "Heat Fence" from a welding supply store.

After the floor and rockers are in, prime as needed and use plenty of seam sealer on all the new seams, both inside and outside, then top coat with the finish color. The rockers can be "treated" inside with Wayoyl or something similar. One way is through 3 or 4 holes drilled in each inner rocker, later closed up with rubber plugs and eventually covered by carpet.

Hope this helps!

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[svtmikey]

Alan,

I have always wanted to buy a spot welder....now I just need to convince the wife that I "have" to have one to do this properly.....
Very good advice, I temporarily welded some steel frames across the door opening already (MIG)...just in case the rockers were conpletely gone....still haven't gotten to that point yet. The GT6 to my surprise is not really much stronger than a Spit as far as I can see. The windsheild frame is simply bolted on to the body with 3 bolts on the dash board, and 2 of the "philips type" screws at the top roof area ....nothing welded at all so there is still a small amount of flex.
You have given me something to think about though...maybe welding the seams all the way along would be better in the long run. I still think I need a spot welder though......
Thanks
Mikey