Weird oil leak?

[eschneider]

Seems strange that this would leak from the corner of the plate, but I triple-checked and it sure looks like this is the culprit. The leak started after replacing the oil pump, getting about a 3" spot under the car overnight.

I guess to fix this right, gonna have to pull the front plate and replace the gasket.

Read through previous posts - looks like the tricks are to check for straight-ness, and use a non-hardening gasket dressing like hylomar? Aviation dressing? (my first instinct is to use thick grease - this is a high stress joint - but I will happily defer to the voices of experience and cunning)

Also looks like I'll have to drop the pan and re-seal the aluminum saddle bit. The TR6 guys mentioned something about a replacement steel saddle? Any tips for a TR3 engine? What about those little "T" shaped cork bits?

For astute viewers who note the crank pulley differnces and the direction of the motor mount ears - this is actually a Morgan. We roll like that.

 

[TR3driver]

You're going to try to R&R the front plate with the motor in the car?? I guess Morgan owners really are masochists!


Someone probably does make a steel replacement for that aluminum block, but I would just install Helicoils and go on. Should be fine if you don't go overboard on torque. Actually, I've never had one strip out, but I suppose there is always a first time; might as well make sure while you're in there.

Many years ago (last time I did a full overhaul for a TR3A), I used Permatex Aviation on that gasket. Today I'd use Hylomar on the gasket, save the Permatex for the cork bits.

IMO it's also worth double-checking the bolt lengths. When I dropped the pan on the project TR3 the other day, I found that all of the bolts were about 1/4" too short, except for the one that had skinned the threads out of the rear main cap (I wonder why?). The cap had one that was too long, so it was bottoming in the hole instead of clamping the pan firmly. The rear seal still leaks all over, but the pan flange looks a lot drier now.

And all new lockwashers, of course.

 

[eschneider]

You're going to try to R&R the front plate with the motor in the car?? I guess Morgan owners really are masochists!

Guts and brawn I got. It's the experience and brains that I have to borrow. <grin> I'm grateful for the tips.

 

[DrEntropy]

There's more room in th' Moggie, too. :wink:

 

[eschneider]

There's more room in th' Moggie, too

Shhhh! Almost had someone fooled into thinking I work for a living.......

 

[DrEntropy]

Oops. Sorry! I forget these TR guys think all LBC's have constrained spaces in th' engine room.
The ol' "10 pounds o' <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">stuff</span></span> in a 5 pound sack" kinda thing. :smirk:

 

[Andrew Mace]

TR guys? Maybe.

"SC" (small car) Triumph guys? Not so much....

:laugh:

 

[HerronScott]

TR guys? Nah, I always thought TR4/TR4A/TR6's had lots of room under the hood.

Maybe those MG guys?

Scott

 

[DrEntropy]

Ya mean those cars wot don't need to have their crankshaft checked for fore-aft slop every month? :shocked:

(and thanks fer not mentioning Lotus' "constrained" working space. :wink: )

 

[sp53]

That has to be one of the nicest pictures I have seen of that area. I have R&R the bear plate as it is called around here, but it did not have those motor mounts either. My experience has been that the cork bits often leak when installed unless they are basically omitted and something else is used in their place. The problem is you do not want that something coming lose and rolling around in the oil pan. When filling something like the cork T thingie, it reminds me of filling a cavity in a tooth. I have often wondered how dentist make those little things stay put with all that moisture and movement. Perhaps TR6 Bill could enlighten me. Anyways there are so many places for the oil to leak from in that area, the bear plate, front seal, (either hub or seal) chain cover, oil pan, or coming out around a bolt that I go pretty methodical in there. Clean, clean, clean and make sure the room temperature and curing time are right. I forgot where I got the bear plate gasket, but it was kinda thick and black. I put it in with that red liquidly non-Harding permatex.
Steve

 

[Brosky]

That blond looks an awful lot like the gal from England who poses with the Mini's all the time. Maybe it was taken back in her younger years?

 

[DNK]

I could swear he was saying the front cover was leaking,not the sealing block

 

[eschneider]

I could swear he was saying the front cover was leaking,not the sealing block

amongst my questions are:
1) I'm gonna try it anyway, but should I realistic-ly expect that the plate will not drip when I'm done?

2) when doing the cover plate, shouldn't the front block be removed, cleaned and re-sealed (since it will be disturbed)

3) looking at the diagram, the little T-shaped bits look troublesome, and I was hoping for tips (thanks)

4) the plate gasket seems subject to lots of flex and vibration, since that mating joint carries the full weight of the motor - hylomar seems to be the sealer of choice.

5) as long as the oil pan is coming off AGAIN (to re-seal the front saddle block, I am going to try to re-seal the rear saddle block - dig out the felt strips and replace them with shellac and strips of t-shirt (common trick in the Morgan world)

Since this is something I haven't attempted before, time spent even in failure will be worth the educational experience. Besides, I can take the time to clean and paint all the bits - so they'll be colorful AND glistening with (fresh) oil. The voices of experience in the forum will hopefully improve my luck.

I can hear the voice of a previous boss: "Well, ya got 2 chances, and slim just left the building"