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Waxoyl access holes?

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cyaker

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Looking ahead to another step. Like to do that when I get tried of eliminating rust spots from the body, almost there. Last night hit the last spot the DPO had bondo. Under it was a 2x1 inch hole in the interior bottom of the drivers B post. Should not be bad to weld a patch in.

I am looking for any guidance about placement of access holes to reach all of the sections in the frame for Waxoyl treatment before the body goes back on. I have already done the repairs to the frame and redone the brakes and suspension bits. Should I go from the top where they are out of sight or sides for future access or bottom to allow for any drainage needs? Also should I go with rubber plugs when done or weld in patches. I am inclined to go with plugs and sealant. Also any thoughts where along the frame they should go for best coverage.
 
Hang in there. Someone did that here not too long ago. they'll be around sooner or later.

Welcome to the forum!
 
Waxoyl is an excellent product but it takes some effort to use it, if you don't already know.

I bought the gallon size can and heat it with a large double boiler outside. You don't want to do this in your kitchen. I set up a large boiling pot that would hold the can completely, immerse the Waxoyl can inside the pot filled with water, of course not letting water too close to the top of the Waxoyl can and remove the lid on the can. I use an outside burner to heat the water to a low boil, letting it simmer until the Waxoyl is completely liquid and quite hot. I bought a spray gun setup from Eastwood products that has all the attachments for spraying products like heated Waxoyl, attaches to my air compressor. Waxoyl spays on fast so be ready to move your wand around! What may appear to be too thick a coating of the stuff usually is ok because in a few days (it takes a while), it will dry and thin out nicely. Waxoyl does not last forever and needs to be refreshed every year or few years, depending on your clime.

I like the stuff. I don't use plugs anywhere I apply it. like these parts to be able to breath. I even Waxoly-ed my rockers by cutting round plugs out of both ends (did this to access these blind areas for cleanout and repainting) and did use large rubber plugs to reseal them, as they do breath from the top and bottom.

Remember, get it hot!
 
I used LPS 3 shot through an undercoat wand when I did my frame. No heating or reducing and good protection against rust.
I'm not taking away from Waxoyl because I've heard a lot of good information, but I don't think many people have heard of it outside the British car hobbyists community. It stays soft, so you don't have to worry about water retention like with dried rubberized products.
It was originally described to me as the product farmers use. It also comes with a warranty.
I found it at the local auto parts store.

I would not weld the holes shut. The heat would cause melting or burning of the undercoat in the vicinity of the weld. Use a Caplug, same as the professionals.
 
I used a product called Penetrol. It is actually a paint conditioner. It is just about as viscous as water and flows into crevices and seams. I've used it on other vehicles that get wet and muddy, too. It dries hard and very nearly clear. As far as longevity, it will stay on until it gets scraped off. Good for waterproofing electrical components.protecting rubber gaskets and just about anything else you want to protect from moisture, providing it doesn't constantly flex.
Good paint departments will have it. You can use a brush, a q-tip, plastic spray bottle or garden sprayer to apply.
 
poolboy,

...providing it doesn't constantly flex.

This would concern me on a Triumph frame.
 
Here you go, just like mom used to make..............

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available
 
ISTR we've had this discussion before, but perhaps it was on a different forum. The consensus seemed to be that genuine Waxoyl contains additional ingredients that make it more effective than the "home brew" stuff.

And Dinitrol outdid Waxoyl in a test done by Practical Classics. (1st in Practical Classics Long Term Anti-Rust Test May 1993)

But no doubt anything is better than nothing (which is what I use).
 
DougF, in case you were serious;the frame is OK. I was thinking things like protective boots and sealing gaskets, like for the boot and bonnet. Plug wires and the like benefit and it stays on well.
 
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