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57_BN4
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Can anyone recommend a source for replacement water pump seals that fit the early type bolt-together BN4 water pump?
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57_BN4
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Thanks Keoke.
I've decided the theme for this car is going to be "doing it myself", ie not sending out any work I can do myself to an equal or better standard than a 'professional'. Mostly this is due to my disappointment with outwork I have had done in the past and also because the vast majority of items on the car are the ones it left the factory with so I'd like to keep them rather than exchanging for rebuilt.
So I will do what the rebuild shops probably do and fit a generic modern seal with an adapter sleeve.
Cheers,
Andy.
I've decided the theme for this car is going to be "doing it myself", ie not sending out any work I can do myself to an equal or better standard than a 'professional'. Mostly this is due to my disappointment with outwork I have had done in the past and also because the vast majority of items on the car are the ones it left the factory with so I'd like to keep them rather than exchanging for rebuilt.
So I will do what the rebuild shops probably do and fit a generic modern seal with an adapter sleeve.
Cheers,
Andy.
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Well 57_BN4
There are some small parts that are not available to the consumer, but specialty shops have vendors that make up relative large lots for their business use. Similarly, these shops do not sell to the consumer but do offer their rebuilding services as a trade.This might be one of those parts I do not know.--Fwiw--Keoke
There are some small parts that are not available to the consumer, but specialty shops have vendors that make up relative large lots for their business use. Similarly, these shops do not sell to the consumer but do offer their rebuilding services as a trade.This might be one of those parts I do not know.--Fwiw--Keoke
Healeysince59
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There's an excellent article on rebuilding a water pump by tomshobby on the BCF WIKI in the Orphan Pages section. In part 2 he talks about where he found seals.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/tikiwiki/tiki-orphan_pages.php
I'm with you on the "doing it myself" approach. I've found little on these cars that I can't fix by buying a new tool (except chrome and major machining).
Having said that, I'm off to the dealers to spend $127 to have the dealer scan my wifes ---- PT Cruiser and tell me why the ABS light is on.
Marv J
https://www.britishcarforum.com/tikiwiki/tiki-orphan_pages.php
I'm with you on the "doing it myself" approach. I've found little on these cars that I can't fix by buying a new tool (except chrome and major machining).
Having said that, I'm off to the dealers to spend $127 to have the dealer scan my wifes ---- PT Cruiser and tell me why the ABS light is on.
Marv J
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For that price, you can buy the scan reader tool and do it yourself.Healeysince59 said:
I was thinking the same thing.---Keoke--Healeysince59
Jedi Warrior
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OBDII code readers don't read ABS codes, I've got a couple of those. ABS codes are not universal and the affordable readers only work with specific cars. I bought one that was supposed to work and got the message "Can't Communicate With This Car" Sent that back and got another type . Same problem. Independent garages I talked to said they would probably have the same result and would take it to the dealer. I'm tired of screwing with it. Didn't happen today, maybe tomorrow - maybe.
Marv J
Marv J
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57_BN4
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Healeysince59 said:
Hi Marv,
Thanks for the link, that was very interesting. The Triumph pump design looks a lot like the one on my Ford. Luckily the Zephyr uses the same hardware as a Forson Major tractor and the agri supply store down the road had a rebuild kit on the shelf for only $46 so it was very easy to press back together with NOS parts.
The Healey pump is very simple to disassemble, only being held together by the nut in the centre of the pulley flange. The problem is that the rubber bellows of the seal is completely perished after sitting dry for the last 14 years. I'll report back with what I find out.
Cheers,
Andy.
tahoe healey
Yoda
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Now you got me interested. I have my old, original (?) pump sitting on the shelf. The replacement is from India (Moss). It has a thicker flange and counter sunk spaces for the nuts to go into. OK if the radiator is removed. Difficult to tighten if the radiator is still in place. I got quoted 95 bucks plus shipping to rebuild the old one. The Moss one is $116 and guaranteed for two years. I would love to repair mine.
tahoe healey
Yoda
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Use to be you could just get them done at local machine shops.
BertVanBrande
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I love to repair things so the 100 BN2 waterpump was no different. Based on the excellent article about rebuilding the 100 waterpump I rebuild with a stainless sleeve, a modern pump seal and sealed bearings. The article can be found in this almost 500 page treasure trove of technical articles for the 100
https://www.healey6.com/Technical/100_TECHNICAL.PDF
Some stuff applies to the 6 cyl too.
The pump has not run yet. the engine was rebuild in the late 80's or early 90's and I am double-checking everything. It ran perfectly fine though before I dismantled the car 6 years ago.
b.
https://www.healey6.com/Technical/100_TECHNICAL.PDF
Some stuff applies to the 6 cyl too.
The pump has not run yet. the engine was rebuild in the late 80's or early 90's and I am double-checking everything. It ran perfectly fine though before I dismantled the car 6 years ago.
b.
OP
57_BN4
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Thanks for the link Bert.
"My seal came from a Swimming Pool Parts Supplies" LOL, this sort of info that is just fantastic.
The article is on page 472, text below if anyone is interested and on a slow internet connection.
Andy.
Recently there has been a couple of enquiries about 4 cylinder water pump seals. One that has been used successfully (18,000 miles over 5 years) is a Sealol ¾” Type 6 seal. The impeller which is held on by a nut is the easiest to do, although the press on type can be done, using great care and with good luck (as it is thin cast iron and could be over 30 year old).
SHAFT
Enlarge the 5/8” rear section to ¾” by using a sleeve of 19mm X 1.6mm 316 stainless steel tube secured by Loctite Super Bearing Mount. Chamfer the front of the tube to allow the thrower to work if required. A stainless steel ½” ID washer is required at the rear to seat the seal's rubber ring.
IMPELLER
Shorten the front of the impeller where it touches the ½”washer by the amount required to obtain the clearance of 0.010" to 0.020" between the pump body and the vanes of the impeller.
BEARINGS
While you are at it, replace the bearings with pre-greased sealed bearings (LJ 5/8 2RS) and you won't have to remember to grease them or clean up grease thrown around the engine bay if you are to enthusiastic with the grease gun. Discard the old oil seal and cut a ¼” slot in the holder, this is to drain any water that might get there in. Refit the oil seal holder, using silicon rubber, with the slot to the bottom. Also remove the grease nipple and plug up the hole with a short bolt.
SEAL.
Remove the protruding step on the carbon face and trial fit the seal. If it is to long replace the square section rubber ring with a ¾” ID X 3/32" 'O' Ring (BS 116) to do the sealing at the back, also the ½” washer will have to have it's outside reduced to 0.95" to fit into the seal's rear recess. The ceramic seat supplied is not used as the carbon face runs on the pump body's cast iron seat.
My seal came from a Swimming Pool Parts Supplies as I noticed when I was replacing the one in my swimming pool pump, it looked suitable for the use in the 100 Water Pump. Sealol ¾” Type 6 seals are available from Woronora Engineering 1/56 Alexander Ave Taren Point 9524 1244 and most bearing suppliers (ask for ¾” pool pump seals). MOST BEARING SUPPLIERS STOCK OR CAN GET THESE SEALS
"My seal came from a Swimming Pool Parts Supplies" LOL, this sort of info that is just fantastic.
The article is on page 472, text below if anyone is interested and on a slow internet connection.
Andy.
Recently there has been a couple of enquiries about 4 cylinder water pump seals. One that has been used successfully (18,000 miles over 5 years) is a Sealol ¾” Type 6 seal. The impeller which is held on by a nut is the easiest to do, although the press on type can be done, using great care and with good luck (as it is thin cast iron and could be over 30 year old).
SHAFT
Enlarge the 5/8” rear section to ¾” by using a sleeve of 19mm X 1.6mm 316 stainless steel tube secured by Loctite Super Bearing Mount. Chamfer the front of the tube to allow the thrower to work if required. A stainless steel ½” ID washer is required at the rear to seat the seal's rubber ring.
IMPELLER
Shorten the front of the impeller where it touches the ½”washer by the amount required to obtain the clearance of 0.010" to 0.020" between the pump body and the vanes of the impeller.
BEARINGS
While you are at it, replace the bearings with pre-greased sealed bearings (LJ 5/8 2RS) and you won't have to remember to grease them or clean up grease thrown around the engine bay if you are to enthusiastic with the grease gun. Discard the old oil seal and cut a ¼” slot in the holder, this is to drain any water that might get there in. Refit the oil seal holder, using silicon rubber, with the slot to the bottom. Also remove the grease nipple and plug up the hole with a short bolt.
SEAL.
Remove the protruding step on the carbon face and trial fit the seal. If it is to long replace the square section rubber ring with a ¾” ID X 3/32" 'O' Ring (BS 116) to do the sealing at the back, also the ½” washer will have to have it's outside reduced to 0.95" to fit into the seal's rear recess. The ceramic seat supplied is not used as the carbon face runs on the pump body's cast iron seat.
My seal came from a Swimming Pool Parts Supplies as I noticed when I was replacing the one in my swimming pool pump, it looked suitable for the use in the 100 Water Pump. Sealol ¾” Type 6 seals are available from Woronora Engineering 1/56 Alexander Ave Taren Point 9524 1244 and most bearing suppliers (ask for ¾” pool pump seals). MOST BEARING SUPPLIERS STOCK OR CAN GET THESE SEALS
BertVanBrande
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Here' a pic of the work in progress: parts cleaned, ready for assembly. Stainless sleeve installed. About $1.3 from onlinemetals.com + a dap of bearing locktite. Seal +/- $15 from mcMaster.com. Bearings from ebay $25. The 100 waterpump bearings are an imperial size that not many bearing houses carry. So all in all it's maybe a bit cheaper than a repro part if I don't calculate my hours and I don't as they're fun! The brass tap was cleaned and rebuild as well.
