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Washers and Loctite

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T

Tinster

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Another fastener question, so please excuse
my lack of knowledge once again.

I am about to begin the task of reconstructing the
passenger side rear suspension. I pitched all the
existing bolts, nuts, etc. and have purchased new
grade #8 bolts and all metal locknuts.
(American threads every piece)

Some of Pedro's K-mart metric bolts had washers and
some did not. Do all bolt heads get washers under them?
If some don't need washers, how can I determine to washer
or not to washer the bolt heads?

Should I purchase lock washers if washers are required?

Since I am rebuilding the suspension, which receives much
vibration, do all bolt threads get Loctite?

And one final- Today I will install the new rubber bushings
in the Paul's trailing arm. Do the two metal core cylinders
get filled with grease for lubrication before I mount the
bolts thru them and attach the lock nuts? Ah! Do nuts also
get washers? So confusing.

PS: Since I have no other TR6 as a frame of reference, it
makes sense for one of you guys with a well put together TR6
to retire here to the island and enjoy our tropical
lifestyle!! Then, I would not need to ask so many stupid
questions. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif And we could start our own club!!

Thanks as always-Dale /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

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Dale,
Do you have the Blue/Green parts book from one of the Big 3 vendors? I'm new here so I don't know if I can say the name.

I found them invaluable in figuring out the stack up of fasteners. They will also show you the mostly correct direction of installation. In my line of work (aircraft mechanic) we always put a washer under the head of a bolt and nut unless told not to and I've done the same on my car.

I use Blue Locktite on my suspenion except for the bolts on the TA's which go through the frame, which will have to opened/loosened when you have an alignment. Personally I wouldn't fill the bushings with grease. I'd probably get a copper anti seize compound. Being in Puerto Rico, it's rainy season right? the anti seize will cut down on the rust between the bolt and bushing eliminating squeeks and make it easier to take apart again in the future.

Gordon
 
Dale,


Purchase the spare parts manual for your car. It shows every nut and bolt, and every other piece that came on your car from the factory. It is the book that the vendors base their catalog images on except the vendors omit the parts that they don't sell. So this book shows all the parts.

It will show you the bolt, washers, nut for all attachments, and number of each.

And the Standard-Triumph Hardware Catalog will decode the factory parts numbers to give you the bolt size, bolt length, thread pitch, washer type, nut type, etc.

Both are required IMO for anyone doing a restore.
 
You can say the name, Gordo.

Would Copper-Shield be in some way better than "regular" Auntie-Sneeze? I'd be concerned with electolytic reaction at some point using the copper stuff. I use it on ground points, or any mechanically made electrical connections but always used the other for assemblies.

Words of advice?
 
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