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Very quiet day here.

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Needed a bolt to hold the dizzy in place and did not have anything in the garage sooooo. Will get one tomorrow first thing. Also a choke cable along with a few other goodies is to arrive in the AM. Weather permiting it's a go for noonish. That's NASA talk folks.

We will see what we see.

Found that I needed to readjust the emer brake after getting the breakes just right. Now it looks like I might need a new emer brake cable this one is adjusted right at the last thread, think it has stretched over the years. Oh well they are available and cheep enough. On second thought I wonder if anything can be done with the brake rods, I do have new pins in all the joints, need to look and think about that.

Sorry for all the bitter details but I have got to share with someone.

Carbs seemed ok overnite, crosses fingers, have em set at 6.5 flats, we shall see. If I have any problems at all will take my dial gage and check that choke tubes are down .050 from the throtle body. That is supose to be the magic number for the initial adjustment.
 
I'll have to try that 6.5 flats on the Tunebug. I've had issues with it running rich, and I've started with the 12 flats recommendation.

And Jack, that's why we're here -- we all need someone to share this stuff with, so we don't alienate all our local friends. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
HS4's are 12 flats initially, HS2's 6.

Am I the one who said 12 for Tunebug?

Don't listen to old men... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Ahhhh, haaa. How about H1's Doc what's the old man consencus.
 
Same as 2's IIRC.
 
12 flats is what the book says (Haynes and factory). Never could get it to run quite right with that, though.
 
I've also started with 12 flats like the books says, but to rich. Anyone know what an HF6 should be? I'm putting a single one onto my 1275 engine rebuild?
 
Sounds good Jack.

Six flats is the magic number.

Patrick
 
Durn, no wonder. At 12 flats the spring was not providing enough compression on the copper washers inside and the nut was about to drop off. I just knew that was not right.

Guess all the reference material is wrong or is for H2s only.
 
I think some of the people who write the books look at one set-up and assume all similar ones work the same!! After all, SUs all LOOK the same don't they?
 
Well kinda but not really.
 
You know what I mean Jack, they all have the dashpot on top a float-bowl hanging on the side and needle adjustment underneath, and I think the books, in general, are geared to the newer cars, whose carbs look very similar but are different in only subtle ways. Manuals should take greater pains in differentiating the variations, but obviously many don't, just go back and read the thread!!!

Just double checked the Haynes manual...They lump the H1 & H2 together and give a rather general overview on initial settings (they say 12 flats for both by the way!) and then they lump the HS2 & HS4 together and then basically repeat what they said for the H1 &H2!!!! They missed something somewhere!!

Not saying whether Haynes is good or bad, they are just a rather typical example!!
 
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