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TR6 Various TR6 questions

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John_Mc

John_Mc

Jedi Knight
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Several questions for the group:
1) my heater switch seems to only work on one setting. I can't seem to pull it into a second position which essentially limits my switch to an on/off switch. I've discovered that the choice of wire leading from the switch determines fan speed so I guess I can just pick the "high" wire and connect it to the functioning "on" connector since I figure if I ever need the heat at all, I'll need a lot! So I guess my question is: is there a trick to getting the switch to function at two speeds (or two settings)? and why so many male connectors on the switch? For the record, the number stamped on the switch is 34477A 04 69.
2)the one gauge on my dash that doesn't work is amp gauge. I'm not sure where to begin on that since access to the back of the dash panel is a mystery to me apart from coming from underneath (Amp gauge not accessible that way). I thought I read somewhere that that a generator uses an amp meter and an alternator uses a voltmeter, but being electrically inept, I don't even know if that makes sense. If it does, my car has an alternator.
3)anyone find a suitable aftermarket replacement for the trip reset cable? the original seems to be unavailable.
3) when I had my clutch replaced 2 years ago (by a seemingly reputable mechanic who races a TR4 and a TR6), he placed the slave cylinder pushrod through the top hole of the clutch shaft lever arm. I had always heard it emphasized that the middle hole was to be used regardless. Is there a reason he may have done this ie clutch type?
Okay, sorry for the plague of remedial questions!(and I've got more waiting in the wings!) Just trying to capitalize on the wisdom and experience of the group. thanks!
 
John, it will be 100degs here today, I admire your attention to detail, but I think you have a one speed switch(like my 71)these girls were in transition and had lots of different bits installed. I recently did the new wiring harness thing and very nearly went nuts. The harness was suposed to be 71 only but after careful studing of the many schematics that are shown, I concluded that it was a composite of 72 71 70. No doubt this is due to the lack of any truly accurate schematics.
To access the gages take out the facia screws, and remove the tach and speedo cables, this should give you just enough room to pull the assembly foreward(disconect poss cable too!!)
Try the other settings on the clutch lever to see which feels right for you and still does the important job of releasing the beast.....
The cable is a swap meet thing but can be found,good luck
MD(mad dog)
 
2) Reach up from underneath and unscrew the knurled nut on the back of the ampmeter and push it out through the face of the dash. Now, there shoud be 2 heavy gauge brown wires (I think they have white stripes, but I can't remember). These should be connected to the ammeter, so if they are then your ampmeter is bad (a previous owner may have just connected the 2 to each other and bypassed the ampmeter). If so, replace it with a voltmeter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Ammeters measure amperage, they go between the battery and the rest of the car and show how much current is being drawn from the battery or charged back into the battery. Voltmeters tell what the voltage is in the system and are much more useful for gauging system condition in my personal opinion. If you have the down-pointing Smiths gauges like my father's 69 you can get a voltmeter from a TVR 2500M (or other TVR models) that will look identical to the rest of your gauges. If your needles point up then later TR6's have voltmeters that will look stock.
 
Sounds like you ahve an "ON" "OFF" fan switch and a harness that will accept a "off" "low" "high" switch. I would just get a new (or used) 3 position SW and install same. Some conversions of the alternator can cause the volt/amp meter to be eliminated from the circuit. Do you have the original Lucas charging system? An earlier post is giving you a process to start the restoration of the amp or volt meter (I don't know what is there, volt or amp, or what should be there.)
 
On your clutch question.
You're right, it's supposed to use the middle hole, however these clutches are a bit marginal in terms of length of stroke to actuate, using the top (highest from ground) hole gives a little more clutch movement for the same stroke at the cost of a little more effort required. Mechanic may have done this because yours is more marginal than most.
If you have any trouble releasing the clutch then its usualy a sign of the dreaded taper pin problem.
 
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