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Valve Cover Gasket
- Thread starter vette
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dougie
Luke Skywalker
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I used this one for a few years with success on my racer. https://mossmotors.com/austin-heale...-valve-cover-gaskets-by-gasket-innovations-12 After I rebuilt the motor last year I put a new one on and had some leaking, so I went back to the old school cork unit. I do use gasket sealer https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex...F26pToYEPlfXdP4waaXOyhuImlU4fgdQaAmhAEALw_wcB
to mount both the silicone and cork gasket to the cover and only use a little oil on the head side to create a solid seal.
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I put the silicone gasket from Moss this last time. It seems to be working fine. Need to follow the directions, though.
OP
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Thanks Dougie. I also have the blue silicone gasket on my '70 Vette valve covers and yes they leak a little. Not really happy with them. I have been running the cork gasket on the Healey for about 10 years. I also use the black RTV with the cork. The Healey valve cover gasket has weeped a little near the front right corner. I am going to adjust valves soon and was hoping to find a superior gasket this time around. Maybe I already have the superior gasket in the cork.
Thanks for the input. Dave C.
Thanks for the input. Dave C.
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I've twice tried the silicone gaskets with my Ray Juncal valve cover - without success. Maybe they work better on the stock valve covers due to the lip around the periphery.
What's worked for me is to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover with weatherstrip adhesive, then weight it overnight on a plate glass tabletop so the bottom is flat. Install with a light coat of hylomar between the gasket and head surface.
What's worked for me is to glue the cork gasket to the valve cover with weatherstrip adhesive, then weight it overnight on a plate glass tabletop so the bottom is flat. Install with a light coat of hylomar between the gasket and head surface.
RAC68
Darth Vader
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Hi All,
Dave, I made the same request a number of years back and was referenced to Gasket Innovations. Back then, I had been using cork gaskets and had never gotten the knack down for getting an oil-tight seal. After receiving and installing the silicone gaskets, without applying anything additional, I found all leaks eliminated (for the first time). I must admit, however, since my (initial) success I have been quite hesitant of removing the cover to adjust my valves (with tapping getting louder) as I don't know how they will fare when reapplied.
Has the Gasket Innovations gasket re-sealed well after some years of being in-place and is there a procedure?
Ray(64BJ8P1)
Dave, I made the same request a number of years back and was referenced to Gasket Innovations. Back then, I had been using cork gaskets and had never gotten the knack down for getting an oil-tight seal. After receiving and installing the silicone gaskets, without applying anything additional, I found all leaks eliminated (for the first time). I must admit, however, since my (initial) success I have been quite hesitant of removing the cover to adjust my valves (with tapping getting louder) as I don't know how they will fare when reapplied.
Has the Gasket Innovations gasket re-sealed well after some years of being in-place and is there a procedure?
Ray(64BJ8P1)
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There are two gasket styles, one for stock covers, one for aftermarket (alloy) covers. Use the correct one. Seal to the cover with red RTV, and set the cover, gasket down, on a FLAT surface until the RTV cures. Then install.
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Ray:
You said "I have been quite hesitant of removing the cover to adjust my valves (with tapping getting louder) as I don't know how they will fare when reapplied."
Solution 1--Remove valve cover, adjust valves and if necessary get a new gasket.
Solution 2--Remove hearing aids and continue to ignore the issue.
You said "I have been quite hesitant of removing the cover to adjust my valves (with tapping getting louder) as I don't know how they will fare when reapplied."
Solution 1--Remove valve cover, adjust valves and if necessary get a new gasket.
Solution 2--Remove hearing aids and continue to ignore the issue.
fwtexasbj8
Senior Member
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I have had the Moss silicone gasket, installed like John Turney says, for several years. I have had the cover off several times and never any sealing problems.
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Name a small block Chevy valve cover/gasket that don't leak...
RAC68
Darth Vader
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Hi All,
Removed my valve cover and adjusted the valves. Prior to setting the valves, I remembered something Randy Forbes posted a while back on setting valves. Randy indicated that he set the valves cold for consistency and, since the intake valves gain some cooling when Open, due of the passage of the air/fuel, he set the intakes to 0.012". However, since the exhaust gain any cooling Closed, when in contact with the valve seats, he set the exhausts to 0.015" to allow a small amount of extra time.
His logic seemed proper to me and have set my intakes at the high side of 0.012" cold and my exhausts to 0.015" cold. Also interesting, 0.015" cold translates to 0.012" hot. Has anyone tried this exhaust valve setting?
Although I have reinstalled my valve cover with the Gasket Innovations seal still in place, I have not yet started the engine but expect to have no issues when I do.
Ray(64BJ8P1)
Removed my valve cover and adjusted the valves. Prior to setting the valves, I remembered something Randy Forbes posted a while back on setting valves. Randy indicated that he set the valves cold for consistency and, since the intake valves gain some cooling when Open, due of the passage of the air/fuel, he set the intakes to 0.012". However, since the exhaust gain any cooling Closed, when in contact with the valve seats, he set the exhausts to 0.015" to allow a small amount of extra time.
His logic seemed proper to me and have set my intakes at the high side of 0.012" cold and my exhausts to 0.015" cold. Also interesting, 0.015" cold translates to 0.012" hot. Has anyone tried this exhaust valve setting?
Although I have reinstalled my valve cover with the Gasket Innovations seal still in place, I have not yet started the engine but expect to have no issues when I do.
Ray(64BJ8P1)
Last edited:
pkmh
Jedi Warrior
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Ray,
Very interesting concept. The idea of having two different valve settings sounds interesting, though at the risk of sounding like an idiot on the issue, I am going to try answering (or bring up) with two more questions that come to my mind.
A. What happens to the "balance" of the two opposites--intake and exhaust? Like breathing in and out.
B. What can be said for gyration issues on the cam? Minuscule, probably, especially at low rpms. Any concerns at higher rpm's??
Again, not sure if my questions even make any sense. Just throwing it out there. Very curious about this approach!
I, myself for now, am leaving my valve settings all the same (.012", cold), as the good book says.
Paul
Very interesting concept. The idea of having two different valve settings sounds interesting, though at the risk of sounding like an idiot on the issue, I am going to try answering (or bring up) with two more questions that come to my mind.
A. What happens to the "balance" of the two opposites--intake and exhaust? Like breathing in and out.
B. What can be said for gyration issues on the cam? Minuscule, probably, especially at low rpms. Any concerns at higher rpm's??
Again, not sure if my questions even make any sense. Just throwing it out there. Very curious about this approach!
I, myself for now, am leaving my valve settings all the same (.012", cold), as the good book says.
Paul
pkmh
Jedi Warrior
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I did some further investigation on this issue of creating two different valve settings.
After asking some folks I know who seem to have a better understanding of this sort of thing than I, they seem to suggest by creating a larger than specified valve setting (i.e.-exhaust), there will still be a tendency for more banging of the tappets and cam, leading to more wear over time. I understand there will be an advantage to creating a more firm seating of the exhaust valves, but that's all I can mustard at the moment.
I drive my Healey as an old fogy so for me, I am leaving my settings all the same which is 0.012" at cold setting, although it does specify in the Austin Healey Workshop Manual it can be set at .015" (cold) for "competition."
What more or truth can be said about the above?
Paul
After asking some folks I know who seem to have a better understanding of this sort of thing than I, they seem to suggest by creating a larger than specified valve setting (i.e.-exhaust), there will still be a tendency for more banging of the tappets and cam, leading to more wear over time. I understand there will be an advantage to creating a more firm seating of the exhaust valves, but that's all I can mustard at the moment.
I drive my Healey as an old fogy so for me, I am leaving my settings all the same which is 0.012" at cold setting, although it does specify in the Austin Healey Workshop Manual it can be set at .015" (cold) for "competition."
What more or truth can be said about the above?
Paul
OP
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Paul, I think your right on the money. But also know that many hi po cams (especially in small block V8 engines) have different specifications for the intakes and the exhaust valves. This is used to not only develop hp but to develop torque and at what rpms it comes in at. In todays world many of the cams are hydraulic so there effectively is no gap to pound the valve gear. But solid lifter cams are still used. Many small block chevy solid lifter settings were right around .018. The racers would play with the gaps to change the valve timing to see if they could pull more power out of an engine. Racers primary interest is to see how fast they can make it not how long it will last. If its your street car, keep it stock.