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Upper C arm resistance

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jerrybny

jerrybny

Jedi Knight
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Thanks to those that replied to my earlier post about the prothane grease. Now That I have the upper and lower arms installed I am wondering how easy they should move up and down before I connect everything up. Right now the upper arms are not that easy to move up and down after tightening them and installing the cotter pin. Is this normal? They were easy to move before I replaced them but that might have been because the old bushings were warn. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I hate to connect everything up and then find out that they are too tight.
 
Jerry-

Your install may be different, but on my TR4 I recall tightening those upper arm bushes after the car was on the ground and the suspension fully loaded. At that point I carefully torqued things down.

Randy
 
Jerry-
When I did mine, I tightened the nuts so that it was hard to move the A-arm up/down, THEN I backed off of of the castleated nut about one flat in order to get the cotter pin back in. You might check the Bently manual to see what they say as well.
 
I haven't worked on a TR4 or TR6, but every other car I've done suspension work on requires (as Randy said above) that the car to be on its wheels when the final torque is applied to all the fasteners.
 
dklawson said:
I haven't worked on a TR4 or TR6, but every other car I've done suspension work on requires (as Randy said above) that the car to be on its wheels when the final torque is applied to all the fasteners.
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That is also true of the TR2-6, when the stock rubber bushings are used. The rubber bushings distort rather than turn as the suspension moves, so failing to have the suspension near the center of travel when the nuts are tightened can over-stress the rubber.

However, the poly (and Nylatron) replacement bushings turn on the sleeve rather than distorting, so no need to center the suspension first.

I've not done the poly bushings; but with the Nylatron ones there is a SS sleeve that slides over the existing pin. It is important that the nut & washer clamp that sleeve in position so the sleeve doesn't move around on the pin; so the nut needs to be torqued into place. You first tighten it to a minimum torque (sorry, I forget the number offhand) and then continue to tighten until one of the holes lines up.

With the Nylatron, on my cars, the suspension still moves easily with the nuts torqued.

I think it was Herman van den Akker who wrote of having to go through 6 vertical links to find 2 that weren't bent ...
 
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