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Up-date on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

apbos

Jedi Knight
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Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Well, with thanks to you all I think now I can say "Statler" is no longer destined for the scrap heap. With the floors replaced I now have a platform to do more metal replacement and not have the car fall in half.
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I still have some welding to do and I came to the realization quickly that the replacement panels need to be fitted to the car and gluing them in place would not work for this TR3a. Sorry about the pictures they were taken with my phone.
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Now on to the inner fender, so I can remove the body from the frame. Which way should I repair the damage and get a good alignment?
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Randy sent me a patch for the front half of the inner fender and Dan supplied me with a complete inner fender. He also warned me about possible alignment problems with the inner fender. Which way do you think will provide the best fit? Patch or complete replacement?

Thanks
Paul
P.S. Here is a test wheel painted yellow.

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Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

PPS
Dan's complete inner fender is attached to a complete Scuttle which could potentially be used by someone to restore another car.
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

apbos said:
P.S. Here is a test wheel painted yellow.

3978639560_64dcce890a.jpg

Woah, test is successful!

Actually, I was thinking a patch would be an easier weld than a full replacement, but that may not be right. Have you rough fit the outer fender yet to see if you would have problems?
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Randy
Yes I have and it looks like this might not be too bad and this might be an area were I can use the glue I purchased (less chance of warping) and weld only the spot welds down at the bottom of the patch.

Paul
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Hey Paul
Your work looks awesome. Before to long Statler will be on the road.
P.S. Just got back from the triumph show in SLO and will down load photos this morning.
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Sorry Paul, should have commented on the yellow paint as well. Looks pretty faithful to the pictures of your color scheme to my eyes. Are you happy with it?
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Thanks guys!
I am happy with the colour, but not the paint. I used a $2.00 can of spray enamel and it dries so slow it will take days for it to get hard enough to sand and get a clear coat on them. Maybe I should just wet sand and polish. Cheap enough to redo them if needed. I've got a sample of the BRG green polyurethane that think I will paint the car with. I think I will paint the tire box cover and put them side by side to see if I like the colour combination. If I like it I will use a matching poly yellow for the car.

Which way do you think I will get the best results patcing the inner fender?

Paul
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

What made you decide that the floors could not be glued?
I’m not currently a welder nor do I own one and was hoping I could use glue.
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Rich
I think you could glue the panels, but you would have to rivet frequently to get the panels tight to the opposite steel. You would also need lots of clamps and alot of hammering to get the panels perfect. The eastwood panel adhesive that I got has a long set up time, so that should help. My problem on the car was forward on the firewall and rear seat area that needed new steel and the removal process made it thin and wavy so not ideal for the adhesive. With welds you can tack and move down the panel and get everything straight. Here is an article on gluing floor boards that should help Gluing Floor Boards

Paul
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

I'm not diggin the color :laugh:
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

The past week I had a little free time b/t calls and started on the powder coating of my rusty parts etc. A few parts a day and will be ready for more body work when it warms up a little in the garage.
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P.S. I've got to keep up with Tinman58's bling
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Looking great Paul- I think I might steal that red treatment on the cover, it really looks sharp.

Weird question, but that isn't by chance a cutting mat for a quilter is it? I have a castoff from my wife that is similar, works great.
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

I don't remember seeing those photos before of the floor replacement. Very nice work, I'm sure all the welding was done first class also. Nice parts, and valve cover. If you look around you can find the cover for a good price.
 
Re: Update on "Statler"-"xhp 940"

Randy
Thanks and yesa that is a cutting mat. My wife has it out all the time as she sews as her hobby. Collecting sewing machines is cheaper than LBC's
Tom
Blast in the blast cabinet (glass/al oxide combo). Clean with metal prep, heat then clean again when hot and pc. I use the HF pc gun and Eastwood powder and AL foil plug holes and cover screws. If it can be put in the toaster oven I use it, if it is big I have to take it to the shop and use a big stove.
Keith
The welds are good, but not perfect. I'm liking the refective chrome with clear coat on the AL parts. They will clean up well and I will not have to polish them again when they are on the car. Got the valve cover on ebay from Exeter, Ca. It will make the car go faster!!!!!!!

Paul
 
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