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ujoint woes

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saabmp3

saabmp3

Jedi Hopeful
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So I began replacing my u-joints today. The drive shaft has been in the back of my jeep for about 2 weeks now while I waited for the parts to come in. I should have taken a closer look while it was back there.

As a background, I've replaced ujoints in my jeep, so it's not a foreign job for me.

I started looking at the two ujoints and immediatly noticed that one of them was new, while the other (broken) one was possibly orginal. Looking closer at the orginal one, I saw that 3 of the c clips were snapped at some point!

I removed the one c clip that I could, took off half of the ujoint (and broke my brand new vice at the time). Now I've got the ujoint still attached to the shaft with two broken c clips on it. I can't figure out, for the life of me, how to get these clips out? Do I have to cut through the center of the joint and bang them out through the middle? I tried a pin to get a hold of the ends, with no luck.

I'm out of ideas here.

Ben
 
Hello Ben,

definitely a tricky job. My suggestion is to agree with you, cut out the spider with an abrasive disc, drive the two cups inward and out of the yolk.
Now it's a matter of trying a fine punch\screwdriver etc to try and pry out the bits of broken circlip.

Good luck.

Alec
 
old u joints are tough to get out sometimes. If I get one that gives trouble I fire up the tourch and burn the middle out, the ends usualy come out pretty easy. You want to cut clean and fast so you don't over heat the yoke.
 
Well, project over. It turned out to be the most satisfying task that I've completed so far. Worst part, I did the whole thing about 20 miles away from the A/H. All because I broke down and bought a 100 box of latex gloves. Came home and didn't have to spend 2 hours washing my hands.

I went out and got a compressor/cut off wheel. About two minutes of work and the ujoint came out, popped the caps out with a vise. It wasn't simple, but it didn't require a lot of effort, just patience.

Tomorrow I'm off to tackle the axel bearing kits. If I'm lucky I can take care of both axels, install the diff, put the driveshaft back in and do a full set of fluid changes in 4 hours. Maybe, just maybe, I can start driving her tomorrow. I just keep remebering not to push anything.

Ben
 
Ben:

Do the new ones have Zerk fitting?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

if so Read "the infamous LBC U-joint here !!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed
 
Do not push, yep, slow and steady wins the race.
 
Ed, you mention the zerk fittings. My new u-joints had them and one side like the pictures indicate rubs the fitting. Is there a special way to put it on or do I need on without the zerk fitting?
 
Yes....they do have the Zerk fittings, which was a surprise when I ordered them. There's enough clearance to make them work, but I better not have any severe axel articulation :p.

I didn't see anything to "read"?

Ben
 
You won't.
 
Have any severe axel articulation
 
zweks should point to the center of the driveshaft.

mark
 
Well, tonight might be intresting if I get to the point of taking off those overload springs. Who knows what might happen then :p. Maybe I could take the A/H offroad like my Jeep.

I set the zerks up so that they're pointing in opposite directions (to balance any weight diff) and facing the driveshaft, not the flange or gearbox.

It sucks being at work, basically just waiting to start working on the car when I feel like I might be able to go for a first drive tonight.

Ben
 
The question is: Did you get the dimples aligned correctly?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed
 
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