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TR2/3/3A Uggh! TR3 head gasket leak!!!

sammyb

Luke Skywalker
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It was my own darn fault. My TR3's temp gauge started fluctuating wildly and it took too long for me to pull over to check it out. The coolant return hose had popped off, draining the coolant. I put it back on roadside and filled the system with water.

But it's still leaking, and I just traced it to the side of the head!!!!!!! I can't imagine that it just needs to be torqued down, so time for a head gasket change. I ran the car 10 miles over the weekend with no cooling problems, but, I don't want to fry the engine.

I've had a spare TR3 head gasket in my garage for five years. Of course, now I can't find the darn thing!!!! I've ripped my garage apart and all I found was the empty box (and a few assorted gaskets).

Luckily, the TR3 appears to be the easiest head gasket change in history. I'm probably jinxing myself, though.
 
So you have no water in the oil and the compression is still good. Maybe fate is trying to tell something when you cannot find the gasket. Sometimes getting the head off a tr3 is a lot of work mainly because people often suggest not turning over the engine because the sleeves might pop off at the bottom. I knew a guy once that said go ahead and turn them over and use the rope trick, but I usually wrestle with them and NOT turn the engine over. He felt that the sleeves would be so rusted in that it does not matter, but it sounds like a gamble that I do not like. Others say pull all the studs out, but you have to double nut them and they do not like coming out sometimes.
Good luck
 
The problem is that the coolant is indeed leaking pretty well. I have to replace that gasket. (I just hope I didn't warp the head!)
 
sammyb said:
(I just hope I didn't warp the head!)
Personally, I'd be happy with just not cracking it!

I agree with SP53's mechanic, the chance of the liners moving just from ring/piston friction on an engine that has been assembled and run for years is very slight. Once it's been run in, the pistons should slide through the cylinders quite easily; while it usually takes some very determined pounding with a hammer and drift to move the liners. But since I've never had occasion to try the rope trick on a TRactor motor, I haven't found out for myself.

While it's apart, be sure to check liner protrusion on both sides. If they didn't pop up into the range given in the book, IMO you should change the "figure 8" gaskets as well.

Also check the stud threads for distortion, by spinning a new nut down them. If the nut binds about 2/3 down, the stud is distorted and should be replaced.

Both the nuts and washers are specials, don't replace them with hardware store items. But if they are damaged (especially the washers), get some new ones from a reputable LBC vendor.
 
So I have a dumb question, what is the "rope trick". I might add that I had to bang on the liners with a hefty hammer and a hefty drift to get mine out.

Tinkerman
 
The rope trick is when you take out a couple of spark plugs and feed in a piece of rope then turn the motor over and the compression of the rope against the piston lifts up and off the head.
 
:iagree:
Popular on engines like the TR7 and Stag, where the heads tend to become one with the studs. Won't say it's impossible to need it on a TRactor motor, but it's very rare.
 
Thats pretty slick Ive used that when replacing valve springs but now i know another reason to stuff objects into my cylinder.
 
Just remember to take out the rope afterwards! Ever smell burning hemp? LOL!
 
Sherman said:
Ever smell burning hemp? LOL!
Er, uh, No, Of course Not! We NEVER set fire to any hemp, no not us!

But you don't see many hemp ropes any more, at least not in the US where they are nominally illegal.
 
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