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jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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I am looking for opinions on wire wheels for Harold, who currently has Riken basketweaves. Doc advised me that wires are more trouble than they're worth (correct me if I'm misrepresenting you, Doc). But I keep on seeing pics of MGBs with wire wheels, and I can't help but hanker for them. Just how big an operation is changing to wire wheels, anyway? Are they a bag of trouble?

Other question. Here's some symptoms of Harold's handbrake problem:
1) handbrake cable from rear axle mounting to driver's side wheel is fairly taut.
2) cable from axle mounting to passenger side wheel is slack/loose
3) handbrake cable, on underside of car where adjustment screw is, is very slack indeed.

This is all with the handbrake released. I have a feeling that the axle mount point, which is some sort of lever mechanism, may be seized, but it's hard to tell. It doesn't move readily with finger pressure. I've PB Blasted it just in case. Any thoughts on this?

Today I finally received the registration documents from the DMV for Harold, who can retain his "855 NAK" original California Blue/Yellow plates, hoorah!
 
Sounds to me like it is not adjusted properly. You have taken the first step. Clean everything and get it to move freely then adjust the tension per the Hynes.
 
Changing to wires entails changing hubs, increases unsprung weight and adds another mainenance 'thing' to the list. Also requires tube-type tires. None of which are high on my 'desireables' list. They DO look nice tho. That I can't argue.

The handbrake cable may be internally corroded or damaged. It should have a grease fitting on it at about the axle tube area... the linkage on the diff should be moveable by hand when the cable is detached. If the cable is jammed or stiff it can keep the rear brakes applied and cook 'em, so best bet is pull the cable off and find a container large enough to soak the beast in using "Marvel Mystery Oil". ~IF~ it frees up, the proper proceedure is to have the rear brakes adjusted correctly, then fit and tighten the cable to allow four "clicks" of the lever to achieve 'full' handbrake application.
 
Loads o' money... but exceedingly well spent, IMO. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I know someone(if not everyone) is gunna advise against this but; theres always those wire wheel adaptors....I've had them on my 58 MGA since the 70's and never had a problem with them....I put a set on the 61 A in 98 and after about 30,000 miles there still problem free. I got my adaptors off a TR3 and they fit an A with a little grinding down of the centre hub...I assume it's the same for a B, but it might not be.
 
I've looked at these also, Julian. I probably won't go that way just 'cause of the $$$, but doesn't Dayton - and maybe a few others - offer a 4-stud bolt-on wire wheel? That's gotta save some time and aggravation.

R.
 
Wires look great...

wires are a lot of maintenance....

wires can go out of round very easily....

wires can be hard to have mounted and balanced *correctly* locally....

FWIW....YOMV
 
Changing to wires might solve the handbrake cable problems as you also have to change the handbrake cable!
 
I think they look very nice on other peoples cars.
(Fortunately, they were never offered on Elvas.)

Mum has them on her S-3.
ONCE I cleaned and polished all 4.
(They took about 2 hours each)
 
[ QUOTE ]
Changing to wires might solve the handbrake cable problems as you also have to change the handbrake cable!

[/ QUOTE ]

Snort! Well, that's a "half full" way of looking at it :smile:
 
Wire sure are purty but do take a lot to keep clean.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Snort! Well, that's a "half full" way of looking at it :smile:

[/ QUOTE ]

hehehehehe - just pointing out another thing that has to be changed if you switch!
 
I took a closer look at the handbrake cable. My impression is that it has seized somewhere between the adjuster and the axle mounting. I notice that there is a lubrication point on the cable, near the RH rear wheel. This is going to sound naive, but what do I do with that? How do I get lubricant in to it, and what sort of lubricant will free it?

I'm reluctant to replace the cable if all it needs is a bit of lubrication :smile:
 
Take it out, soak overnite in a bucket of solvent. Work the goop out and when it moves free and easy use your grease gun on it to repack and get rid of the rest of the old stuff.
 
Julian,
Similar thread going on over in the Triumph Forum , sure the car is not the same but the tech stuff (hubs, tubes etc) essentially is. I personally have decided against all better judgement to keep my wires, because they just look too darn good. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Don't forget to add a large wooden hammer to your order, good luck!
 
Julian - Regarding the hand brake issue, as some others have suggested, remove the equalizer mechanism from the rear axle, disassemble it and clean it completely, then lube and reassemble it. You will be amazed at how well the hand brake works after doing that.

Wire wheels - Our MGB had wires on it when we got it and they looked really great! On a more practical level, they were real a real pain. It takes as much time to clean a set of wires as it does to wash the entire car. Unless you spend the bucks to get Dayton wire wheels that are sealed, they have to have tubes in them and tubes are problematic at best, they are always getting leaks in them and need repair. Most tire shops won't even talk to you if you have wire wheels (this is ridiculous with today's rim hold tire changing machines, but the mind set, at least a couple of years ago, is that wire wheels will be damaged if they work on them and they don't want to be liable for them. Since the MGB is our primary transportation vehicle, including for yearly trips from Seattle to the LA area, it became a real problem for us. As long as we were in the region where there are Les Schwab tire shops, we could get the wire wheels serviced, but once south of their range, it became a crap shoot if we could find a place to have them fixed. This all came to a head a couple of years age when we were on our yearly trek south and had a rash of tire problems. We managed to find a shop in San Luis Obispo and another one in Palmdale (owned by the same people) who didn't chase us out when we asked them to work on wire wheels. Upon return home, I got a disk wheel rear axle and front hubs, purchased and installed Mini Lites. We haven't have a bit of trouble since then. Bottom line, unless you are not driving your car much, or have masochistic tendencies, don't bother with wires. If you insist on going to wires, spend the extra and get the Dayton tubeless wires.
Cheers,
 
I'll give two thumbs up for wire wheels. They do have their pros and cons, so decide for yourself which aspects are most important to you.

Pros:
- Vintage British looks
- Great brake cooling
- Can be repaired if damaged
- Very fast wheel changes
- Thieves can't figure out how to steal them

Cons:
- More work to clean (chrome is easier to clean than painted)
- Splines will eventually wear out (they last 40 years if kept in good order)
- Can be damaged by improper tire mounting technique
- Some wire wheels require periodic truing (straightening). Dayton offers "maintenance-free" wheels. I have a set and they are great!

Other considerations:
Wire wheels under 4.5" in width will require inner tubes. Rim sizes from 5" up can be ordered tubeless. Stock MGB width is 4.5" but 5" to 6" is quite normal as an upgrade and allows wider tires to be fitted.

For all-out performance, your best bet is a bolt-on Minilite. They are lighter and stiffer than any other type of wheel you are likely to find for your car. But they are a different look, so if like most of us you aren't out for absolute maximum performance, wire or steel wheels will be fine.
 
IMO don't waste your time with the old cable. Spend the $20 and buy yourself a new cable and keep it greased. It will serve you well forever. I'm sure Tony has 'em. Everybody does. They're inexpensive and it is common for them to seize up from lack of lubrication and lack of use.

Dave
 
[ QUOTE ]
IMO don't waste your time with the old cable. Spend the $20 and buy yourself a new cable and keep it greased. It will serve you well forever. I'm sure Tony has 'em. Everybody does. They're inexpensive and it is common for them to seize up from lack of lubrication and lack of use.

Dave

[/ QUOTE ]

Many thanks to everyone for the advice on cable and wire wheels. I think I will stick with my Riken basketweaves, or investigate MiniLites. I have to do something since I have no spare, which seems like tempting fate, and I have not managed to find anywhere selling the Rikens, including Ebay.

I'm still working on the cable, seeing if I can free it up. The rear adjuster on the axle is nice and loose now, but the cable is still seized somewhere further forward.
 
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