Turn Signal Knob goes off center

[RDKeysor]

Never have had any issue with the turn signal knob centered on my BN7's the steerings wheel hub, a Mota Lita style. Now, however, I find that knob resting 11 o'clock. It still functions normally and the green turn signal blinker works, but I don't understand how/why its at-rest position changed. I attempted to simply hand turn it back to the center, but it did not move with that bit of pressure. I recently went through my front suspension after hearing a bit of clunking during an interstate highway trip. This car has the Bilsteen shock system front and rear. The only thing I found taking some snugging was the sway bar. I had installed Delrin (sic?) bushings several years ago and hadn't tightened them down as much as possible, so I applied some thread lock and did that. Haven't heard the mystery noises since. I had also slightly tightened the screwdriver-slotted adjustment screw on the steering gear box, this done with the front wheels removed and the front end on jack stands. I understand this adjustment should be done with the weight off the steering/suspension so you can feel any change in the steering wheel resistance to insure you don't overdo that adjustment. I'll add here that I found the lock nut on that fitting was an odd size, not taking an SAE or metric socket. (Didn't try a Whitworth.) As it happens, my metric wrenches/sockets all skip the 18mm size, just 17 and the 19. But I have an umarked socket in my metric set that fits perfectly, presumably the 18 mm. Just thought I would throw that in. I don't see any connection between the displacement of my turn signal knob and the fiddling I have done, and having read about all of the issues members encounter with stator tubes, I'm not interested in messing with that part of my car's anatomy if avoidable. I must say there are a lot of things on this car that I have have become familiar with, few of them by choice. But ditto my Porsche 968,

 

[BN6_L1232]

You did not state whether you have an adjustable or non adjustable steering wheel. My non adjustable steering wheel has a long tube that connects the directional mechanism to the steering box. If the nut securing the tube at the steering box (where the wires come out) is loose the tube and directional mechanism head will twist, which is exactly what you have experienced. Center and tighten the nut should fix your problem.

I can not speak to a adjustable steering set up, however your post should get several responses. Peter

 

[RDKeysor]

It is non adjustable. I'm right now in the midst of a chore on my 968, but I will take a look at the nut you described as soon as I get that repair finished. Your response certainly sounds like a plausible solution. I have never visited the location you describe so I will be learning something. Thanks!!

 

[John Turney]

Peter is correct. The stator tube is what keeps the trafficator (turn signal knob) from turning, whether adjustable or non-adjustable.

 

[Bill Young]

If the nut was loose, the oil would drain out ... assuming there is still some oil in the box.??

 

[Michael Oritt]

"If the nut was loose, the oil would drain out ... assuming there is still some oil in the box.??"
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Apparently not so--I had the same symptom as did RD to the point where there was enough play between the hub and the head that the self-cancelling feature didn't engage, and yet when I ultimately pulled things apart there was still oil in the steering box.

 

[Keoke]

If the nut was loose, the oil would drain out ... assuming there is still some oil in the box.??

This might depend on how loose the nut was ??

 

[RDKeysor]

The solution to my car's issue, a displaced turn signal knob, worked. Thanks all. But I want to add a couple of things. The lock nut (5/8") is visible and within reach without lifting the car by looking up from under the left-front bumper and spotting the steering box. Once you have an open-ended wrench on the nut, you need to prevent the tube (from which the horn wire emerges) from turning with the nut. I used a long-nose Vise Grip-like tool and simply locked it down lightly. Upon loosening the nut, you can then rotate that tool to reposition the knob at the steering wheel and hold it while tightening the nut. It would be easier if you had a helper center and hold the knob while you snugged the lock nut, but then you don't want to invite her out to the garage again, do you? Since the nut was tight when I encountered it for the fix, I don't know how or why the turn signal knob was displaced. No sign of leakage from the wire fitting but still a little bit of leftover around the steering box shaft. That's just residue because I filled the box with John Deere corn head grease after the box dumped its contents years ago. I just emptied the last of the tube from my grease gun into the box. It's full.

 

[Keoke]

What kind of grease U puttin the box ?--Normally a grease with a few exceptions is not good for the Box ?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I'll add it's necessary to 'set the depth' of the stator WRT the turn trafficator hub; i.e. if you push the hub down the steering wheel hub with the nut/olive loosened, the trafficator hub can rub against the steering wheel hub. This can cause the trafficator hub to try to turn with the steering wheel, which is annoying but a problem for adjustable steering as the movable part of the stator rides in a slot in the (stationary) stator, and the slot has square-cut corners. The square-cut corners are known for cracking; it's a good idea to radius the corners if you have the stator out, and to assure there is a small gap between the two hubs.