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Tuneup order

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drooartz

drooartz

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Installed my bike-brake-cable throttle cable tonight, and took the Tunebug for a spin. It's running and idling at a reasonable level, but it's not really running smoothly. It's time to really start the tuneup process. Here's what I think I need to do:

Valves
Points
Timing
Carbs

What order should I tackle these? Am I missing anything?
 
All of the above, will only take an hour or so.
 
[ QUOTE ]

Valves
Points
Timing
Carbs

What order should I tackle these? Am I missing anything?

[/ QUOTE ]
You have it right. Get the ignition set before touching carbs. Valves can be done before or after ignition, but should be done before carbs.
 
I agree with Chris. Don't touch the carbs until you've done everything else. Then when you get to the carbs, set the mixture individually on the carbs first, then synchronize them.
 
Well, Jack, it would only take you an hour or so... me, probably a couple of days. I'm really slow at this stuff, in part because I'm not always sure what I'm doing! Sometimes one system a day is all my mind can take. At least I've done valves before, on a bike and on my old Land Cruiser, so the basic understanding is there. Points don't sound too difficult, but I must admit to being a bit lost on the whole timing thing.

I do know from fiddling with my carbs that I can make it run much worse. At least that's something! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Drew,

Timing is really easy. I just time mine to maximum RPM, then retard it so that I get about a 100 RPM drop. Then drive it and listen for pinging under heavy acceleration in high gear or when climbing a steep grade (you seem to have plenty of those in your area! <grin>). If it pings, just retard it a little until it stops pinging. If it doesn't ping, you can advance it a little. You want it to be just on the verge of pinging (for optimum performance). I usually try to err on the conservative (more retarded timing) side.
 
Drew, timeing on a stock Bugeye is easier than that. Use a timeing light and adjust to factory specs. If that works fine, if not a bit either way is good. Note where the dizzy is now as it is running and go from there, in fact check it now before you looseen anything. It just might be fine.
 
Looks like I need to get a timing light now.
 
Weeee, new tools.
 
I can always rationalize new tools. Haven't been too many so far, so the budget has been kept reasonable. Besides, a good tool is a lifetime purchase.
 
If you have the funds, you might consider getting a timing light with a built in dwell meter.
 
Mark--Thanks for the link to that site. Good basics there. Plenty to learn...
 
Jeff...Toolsource showing one from Ferret Instruments..#73808....but they are pricey. $274.95. I am sure there are less expansive ones out there.
 
I won't give up my timing light, but I have an analog Sears engine analyser with dwell, tach and shunt for starter/aternator amps I will send for the cost of shipping. This unit is 20 to 25 years old, but all works. I bought a nice digital tach/dwell meter at an auction a couple of weeks ago and have no need of this one now. PM me with shipping information if you are interested. I also don't know that I can find the manual but I can provide basic hookup information. It is not too difficult to use.

Jeff
 
Feeler gage works fine unless you are a pro and doing lots and lots of them.
 
Thanks for the offer Jeff. I have one of those already, probably of similar vintage, and also without instructions (a friend at work gave it to me). I've used the volt meter a bunch, but don't know how to use the tach or dwell bits. No instructions as to where to hook up the leads for those functions. Tach would actually be nice to figure out. With your old one, where do you hook up the leads to get a tach reading?

BTW, I'm really fond of the old analog meters. Nice and easy to read that big needle.
 
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