• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Tuneup bits worth replacing

drooartz

Moderator
Staff member
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Now that the Tunebug is running again, I'm looking at doing a basic tuneup. I'm trying to get him running well enough to make our big British Field Day in three weeks. The last time I tried the drive (40 miles, big elevation changes, from 5500' to 7000' to 4500') I came home on a flatbed.

What should I look at just replacing as good preventative measures? I've done fluids (though not coolant). Should I replace plugs/wires? Distributor rotor and points? Distributor cap? I'm in over my head as usual, but want to give it my best go. Tunebug is not running badly now, but I don't want to miss something simple that will make my next ride a problem.
 
Certainly check all the things you've mentioned. Look for cracking or similar damage to the plug wire insulation. Make sure the plugs aren't loaded with carbon. Check the dizzy cap for any signs of carbon tracking inside, hairline cracks, etc. Carry an extra set of new tune up parts in the boot as insurance against needing the flatbed again this time.

Regarding your other thread on the high idle speed, go through the tuning section of your manual and make sure all the adjustments are set. After that, if necessary iteratively go through the ignition timing adjustments and re-setting the idle speed as necessary to give a steady, smooth, idle at your desired RPM.
 
Aside:

On "rock stock" BMC engines I always try for the lowest smooth idle, i.e. "tickover"--usually down to 500 RPM. It just satisfies me as to the condition of tune/efficiency of the newly fitted bits. Then I bring it up to about 750 RPM for driving.
 
[ QUOTE ]
The last time I tried the drive (40 miles, big elevation changes, from 5500' to 7000' to 4500') I came home on a flatbed.


[/ QUOTE ]

The FIRST question that should have been asked in ref to the above is: WHY, Drew?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed
 
Why the drive, or why the flatbed? The drive is the only way to get from my house to Salt Lake--living in the mountains has that as a side effect. My house is at 5500', and there are 2 passes to go through on the freeways to get to the city.

As for the flatbed, the oil filter blew out (twice) on the trip. I replaced the first one, but when the second one went, I gave up. That turned out to be the wrong gasket, now fixed by installing a spin-on oil filter adaptor.
 
replace all the electrical components under the hood if u havent already.....solinoid, starter, coil, alt, dist cap, plugs, ...you get the idea.....mine ran great afterwards and ill feel ALOT better when im miles from home...; ) ....zzzimmmy
 
[ QUOTE ]
Carry an extra set of new tune up parts in the boot as insurance against needing the flatbed again this time.

[/ QUOTE ]

I be more inclined to install the new ones and keep a known good set of used ones as the reserve... but maybe I've associated too long with Scots of a parsimonious nature....

Edited to add:
PS:
This has the additional benefit of protecting against new parts that aren't quite right- you've got the working old ones at hand to put things back....
 
Well James,this is one Scot (non-parsimonious by the way)who agrees with you.New bits fitted and good used ones for emergencies. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

Stuart. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Total agreement here! Many a time bailed out by the spare bits previously "tested"!!

"Come home WITH your shield or ON it!"
 
Thanks all for the ideas. Since the current bits seem to be working, I like the idea of using them as spares. Now I just need to figure out how to adjust/replace them! Funny how the in-over-my-head feelings never really go away, since there seem to be a never ending stream of new systems to tackle. Amazing in a car as small as a Bugeye!
 
...and this from a fella who deals with digital processors for a living! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Computers and programming I know. I've got words and music to hundreds of songs in my head, to play on half a dozen different instruments. But I've only recently figured out what "points" are and where they are, and while I've heard of engine timing, and have a (very) basic idea of what it is, I'm not sure I could do anything about it.

Didn't grow up around any mechanics, so never learned the basics. I wish I was wealthy enough to hire an old timer/expert to be a mentor through all this. I can read how to adjust stuff, but it's hard to really know when you have it right without having someone right there to tell you.
 
Both the blessing and the curse of the 'net... but we're here to give whatever help we can Drew. It will become as familiar as C+ and with a LOT less mental effort. Just stay the course /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

You're among friends!
 
I do not claim to be an expert by any means. However, I learned by doing myself and asking questions, lots of questions. Never had a mentor, wish I had. Just reading and doing from about 16 years, started with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver or two.

Lots I don't know yet but willing to tackle most anything on the older vehicles.
 
Thanks, Doc. I'd be lost without y'alls help, and I'm very appreciative. The Tunebug thanks y'all too! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
I know you want to keep the car as original as possable. But why not install a Pertronic unit. very dependable, and never have to worry about setting points again. They are really nice for someone who wants to put miles on his car without the hassel of tuning all the time. Just a thought

Carl
 
I don't mind the points, I just need to learn what to do with them. They'll work fine for now, and keeping them is mostly free. I don't really feel the need to modernize, just the need to learn.
 
This is an "issue" with me: cars and electronics. The only circuit board I want in my car is in the radio. WHEN that fails the car still runs... a brand new set of points and a condenser in the glovebox MAY cost $10. I can have the dizzy out, redone, back in and static timed in a matter of minutes. I'm not a purist, just figure if I want to get where I'm goin' it's better if I can FIX a problem en-route or limp home rather than calling AAA.

Periodic maintenance goes a long way to preventing hassles too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
In almost 25 years of driveing a Bugeye to work daily I never had to have it towed. In fact it never failed to start. Lets hear it for maintance.
 
And it's fun, as well--at least for me. I enjoyed spending two hours last night, figuring out how an SU works and fiddling with it to get it to run decently. I'm sure I'll enjoy point setting and such as well. My car doesn't even have a radio, so no circuit boards at all.

I'll feel better once I've really go through all these systems and have everything set correctly. There are so few bits on the car, that it almost has to be reliable once it's all setup correctly. Just not that many bits to go wrong. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Back
Top