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Tuned up and still hot

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drooartz

drooartz

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Got my new bright yellow plug wires installed tonight, along with new points/rotor/condenser. Did my best to tune the carbs in. Seems to be running better than it was before--I had the non-interference-type wires, and I've read here that those don't work so well with the side-entry caps.

When I had the carbs apart, I noticed that I could wiggle the shaft that connects the 2 (and connects to the throttle cable) noticeably back and forth. I'm assuming this means I need to get them rebuilt? Is there some other way to test?

This is my 3rd time trying to get the carbs set. I wish I had someone at hand to watch do it in person once. I'm just not quite sure how to really know when they are right. Tried the "lift a piston, engine rises/falls/rises and stabilizes" method, and I think it is better, but I'm just not really sure if I'm listening to the right thing. Any new tips for a learner like me?

Also, it's still running hot under load--like even a modest hill. Should I retard the timing a bit? That's turning the distributor counter clockwise, right?
 
Are you saying the throttle shafts are loose? Or the connecting link? Check the plugs to see how they are burning. Then do the timing and maybe fatten up the fuel. What plugs are you running?
 
Where does it wiggle Drew, where the shaft goes into the carb body? If so you need those bearings replaced. But no big rush this winter is a good time.

If it is just the linkage look close and see what is moveing and fix.

Hot on hills, of course, is hot out and engine is working hard at your altitude and on your mtns. Keep in mind car is older than you are no telling what the inside of the block looks like. Also keep in mind that they were not designed like todays vehicles.
 
There is no bushing on HS2 carbs they ride directly on the aluminum of carb body and thus don't wear out that often, most of the time the shaft wears and causes the gap/air leak. However sometimes if the loose shafts are neglected for so long then they egg-shape the shaft bore in the carb body. Anyway I can fix any of that if you need help, give me a shout.
 
There ya go. Guess I mis-spoke again.
 
For background, these are the original 1-1/8" H2 carbs (is that right--or are they H1 carbs? I get confused with H2, HS2, etc.) on the Bugeye. Where I'm seeing wobble is at the carb body, on the outside where the shaft that connects the 2 carbs goes into each carb. Is there a way to test if I've got a leak there? Is that where it would leak?

Can't remember what plugs I'm using--fairly generic brand if I remember correctly. Autolite 404 comes to mind, but I may be making that up. Not near the car so can't check till this afternoon. They're the same type that came on the car when I bought it, but are new-ish.

Hap--I'm strongly thinking about sourcing a set of 1-1/4" carbs (seem to remember you might be able to help me there), and holding on to my originals to rebuild eventually. I'm planning on a 1275 in the next year or so, and that gets me going in the right direction.
 
H1 is 1 1/8, H2 is 1 1/4. H2 is really the best for the 948 and the 1275 IMO. H1 is Bugeye.
 
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