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Tube Axle Differential Removal

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BryanB

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I'm interested to know a bit more about removing the differential from my axle before I dive into it.

Can any of you speak to whether the stretch that is mentioned in the MGB workshop manual is actually need or not?

For those of you who have completely overhauled a tube axle, what removing the differential particularly difficult?

Cheers,
Bryan
 

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Not sure what year yours is. I have a banjo axle and never needed anything like this. I simply pulled the axles out to remove the assembly. I had never done this before and felt the same way you do... I worried that I needed special tools. The only time you need the special tools is when you start breaking down the differential itself. I purchased the whole diff assembly and replaced is with no problems at all. Amazingly simple if you do it this way. Hope this helps.
 
Sadly the anatomy of the Tube axle seems to force the need for special tools and procedures. The Haynes manual essentially say that you're [censored] out of luck if you want to rebuild one. heck it tells you to take it to a dealership, as though it could be that easy

I'm hoping that some one on here is considerably older and wiser than myself (I'm 17) and can tell me how to get around paying someone to rebuild the axle and get it done myself without some, apparently impossible to buy, axle stretcher
 
It depends on your axle. Sometimes you can slide it out, other times it requires a stretcher. There is no way to know until you try. I was able to remove my last one by hand, but the axle was bent so it may have already been opened up a bit.

You should be able to service the differential in place. The main carrier bearings almost never wear out, so all you need to replace are the copper and fiber washers, and the pinion seal. This can all be done with the diff unit in place.

Ed, MGB GTs came with tube axles which are different than banjos in that the differential assembly is accessed through a steel panel in the back. Banjos do have an advantage in this respect in regards to maintenance.
 
Only thing holding the diff in the center is the axle shafts. (from pictures) As long as they come out the diff should be removable. I wonder if originally the tubes themselves were separately serviceable - hence the need for such an archaic tool.
 
That's not entirely correct. The opening in the axle is smaller than the width of the assembly. The stretching tool literally stretches the opening enough to get the unit in and out, and then returns it to the original size. Over the years some tube axles have warped enough that the tool isn't necessary for dis assembly.
 
I've never pulled the differential on my MGB axle, but the Salisbury type GM axle in my Midget is very similar and I've had it out several times. The bearing preload on the carrier bearings is set by shims and the assembly doesn't just slip out when the caps are removed. A stretcher would be handy, but I've been able to ease the carrier out by prying with a steel bar moving it a bit on each side and alternating until it pops out. Make sure you keep the bearings and shims together side for side. Usually I can tie a piece of wire through each side after the axles are removed and that keeps things as a set when it comes free. I've reinstalled it by driving it back in place using a wooden block, again working from side to side until it's fully seated. So far no problems. I always recheck the backlash and gear pattern just to be sure.
Brian, working on differentials does take some special training and experience. That's not to say that most guys can't do it, just that you need to get some training or read a heck of a lot before you consider removing the carrier from a Salisbury type axle. Getting the gear mesh correct isn't "rocket science" but if you get it wrong it can be noisy and expensive with very short gear life. Make sure you know what you're doing before you jump into that sort of project. It may be better in the long run to pay someone to do the work.
 
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