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TSI--kevlar brake shoes??
- Thread starter ALLAN
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PeterK
Yoda
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You must bed in the Kevlar lined shoes from TSI. Instructions come with the shoes. What you need to do is make several slowdowns without stopping fully. ISTR speed should be around 35-40, no faster. Then let them cool completely and repeat. Double check with TSI for their instructions. They are a great outfit and the Kevlar shoes are relined on oem metal.
G
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I have the Kevlar front pads, didn't know they made rear shoes.
The front pads stop very well, make a huge amount of brake dust.
The front pads stop very well, make a huge amount of brake dust.
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
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Hi Allan,
I haven't used them, have heard a few people having trouble with the rear drums locking up too easily.
However, in fairness I'd have to say they should probably be used in conjunction with Kevlar-based front pads (Greenstuff?), to keep the system somewhat balanced.
By the way, to really fine tune a car's brakes, the trick setup is to install a hydraulic pressure balancing valve fitted to the rear circuit. Then, set up the rears to over-brake slighly, and reduce the pressure gradually with the valve until the fronts lock up slightly before the rears. At that point, you are getting maximum effect possible with both.
It's not done very often these days, but turning the shoes on the rear (I forget the exact term) so that they are a perfectly arced shape coming up evenly against the inside of the drums can also make for a major improvement in effectiveness. It seems most just let them wear or seat themselves into place over time, these days.
Bill, I wonder if all the dust you are seeing is from the pads... or from the rotors! If the pads you are using are significantly more abrassive, it could be they are more rapidly wearing the rotors.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
I haven't used them, have heard a few people having trouble with the rear drums locking up too easily.
However, in fairness I'd have to say they should probably be used in conjunction with Kevlar-based front pads (Greenstuff?), to keep the system somewhat balanced.
By the way, to really fine tune a car's brakes, the trick setup is to install a hydraulic pressure balancing valve fitted to the rear circuit. Then, set up the rears to over-brake slighly, and reduce the pressure gradually with the valve until the fronts lock up slightly before the rears. At that point, you are getting maximum effect possible with both.
It's not done very often these days, but turning the shoes on the rear (I forget the exact term) so that they are a perfectly arced shape coming up evenly against the inside of the drums can also make for a major improvement in effectiveness. It seems most just let them wear or seat themselves into place over time, these days.
Bill, I wonder if all the dust you are seeing is from the pads... or from the rotors! If the pads you are using are significantly more abrassive, it could be they are more rapidly wearing the rotors.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
G
Guest
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[ QUOTE ]
Bill, I wonder if all the dust you are seeing is from the pads... or from the rotors! If the pads you are using are significantly more abrassive, it could be they are more rapidly wearing the rotors.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
Good question, Alan. The rotors worked well with "standard" brake pads for about 8K miles. The rotors are from TRF, not sure there are other types, save the slotted/drilled ones on the market now. Are there special rotors for the Kevlar pads?
Bill, I wonder if all the dust you are seeing is from the pads... or from the rotors! If the pads you are using are significantly more abrassive, it could be they are more rapidly wearing the rotors.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
Good question, Alan. The rotors worked well with "standard" brake pads for about 8K miles. The rotors are from TRF, not sure there are other types, save the slotted/drilled ones on the market now. Are there special rotors for the Kevlar pads?
YankeeTR
Luke Skywalker
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
Hi Allan,
I haven't used them, have heard a few people having trouble with the rear drums locking up too easily.
However, in fairness I'd have to say they should probably be used in conjunction with Kevlar-based front pads (Greenstuff?), to keep the system somewhat balanced.
By the way, to really fine tune a car's brakes, the trick setup is to install a hydraulic pressure balancing valve fitted to the rear circuit. Then, set up the rears to over-brake slighly, and reduce the pressure gradually with the valve until the fronts lock up slightly before the rears. At that point, you are getting maximum effect possible with both.
It's not done very often these days, but turning the shoes on the rear (I forget the exact term) so that they are a perfectly arced shape coming up evenly against the inside of the drums can also make for a major improvement in effectiveness. It seems most just let them wear or seat themselves into place over time, these days.
Bill, I wonder if all the dust you are seeing is from the pads... or from the rotors! If the pads you are using are significantly more abrassive, it could be they are more rapidly wearing the rotors.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
We used to "arc" the shoes at a shop I worked at in the mid-60's. It made a big difference in the cars stopping ability.
Man I breathed in a lot of asbestos back then!
Interesting...big truck brake shoes are generally "arc'ed" right out of the box...
Hi Allan,
I haven't used them, have heard a few people having trouble with the rear drums locking up too easily.
However, in fairness I'd have to say they should probably be used in conjunction with Kevlar-based front pads (Greenstuff?), to keep the system somewhat balanced.
By the way, to really fine tune a car's brakes, the trick setup is to install a hydraulic pressure balancing valve fitted to the rear circuit. Then, set up the rears to over-brake slighly, and reduce the pressure gradually with the valve until the fronts lock up slightly before the rears. At that point, you are getting maximum effect possible with both.
It's not done very often these days, but turning the shoes on the rear (I forget the exact term) so that they are a perfectly arced shape coming up evenly against the inside of the drums can also make for a major improvement in effectiveness. It seems most just let them wear or seat themselves into place over time, these days.
Bill, I wonder if all the dust you are seeing is from the pads... or from the rotors! If the pads you are using are significantly more abrassive, it could be they are more rapidly wearing the rotors.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
We used to "arc" the shoes at a shop I worked at in the mid-60's. It made a big difference in the cars stopping ability.
Man I breathed in a lot of asbestos back then!
Interesting...big truck brake shoes are generally "arc'ed" right out of the box...
I think the TSI shoes are arced. My last shoes from Victoria British werent---when I took them off after a few hundred miles the shoes were rubbing on only about 1/3 of the surface. I have the large wheel cylinders and according to all reports that gives a little more pressure on the rears and a good balance between front and rear. TSI also offers Carbon Kevlar and Carbon Metallic shoes for the Triumphs.